General Comments on Scotland NC500 (July 2018)

General Comments

Fuel - there are plenty of fuel stations but be aware of what is left in your tank some fuel maybe 40+ miles apart and seems a bit more expensive than at home. The cheapest fuel we found was at Coop at Broadford at £1.30 per litre.

Do we have to stay on a campsite? - Wild camping - apparently you can wild camp but we did not take this opportunity being newcomers to motor homing. We did see a few folks wild campning but felt it better to have some amenities.

Supplies & groceries - There are many independent stores along the route that stock all the essentials and a lot more! There are many great restaurants and cafes for you to try a wide range of tasty Scottish cuisine. try them and help the local economy.

We put a lot of pre-planning into our adventure and we booked sites in advance - this worked well for us and we were able to pace ourselves and see the things we wanted to see.

Mobile signals dependent upon your provider can come and go. There is little free wifi spots but you can join Highland Wifi at a price. 

Folks are really hospitable and friendly and keen to help. 

Skye to Beauly

19 July 2018 - Broadford to Beauly Camp Site
From Applecross back to Inverness the last stretch it is roughly 79 miles and just over 2 hours journey time, this is going via Lochcarron, Achnasheen and back over past the Black Isle before heading back into Inverness. Beauly, has a 13th century priory - now a ruin at the heart of the village, and the village square, laid out by Baron Lovat in the 1840s, is one of the most spacious in the North of Scotland. On the Thursday evening we were visiting there was a pipe band playing and some Scottish dancing in the square. 

Beauty has some pretty floral displays. It is also noted for its good quality shopping - the visitor can find the finest of Scottish tweeds, knitwear and crafts as well as boutiques and antique shops. 

We drove to nearby Contin to visit Rogie Falls which are surrounded by attractive woodland with miles of forest trails managed by the Forestry Commission. 

There's a car park very close to the falls where you can pick up the trails along the Black Water River to a viewing bridge suspended above the falls. It's a fantastic spot with the rushing waters surrounded by interesting rock formations with sloping trees. We looked ofor jumping salmon as they attempt to reach the upper parts of the river to spawn but did not see any on this visit. The woodland trails are great for wildlife with red squirrels, butterflies and various woodland birds to look out for. We stayed at Beauty Holiday Camp all very pristine and orderly which sits alongside the river.

Isle of Skye

18 July 2018 Isle of Skye
Today we set off to explore the middle and north of Skye. Our journey takes us first to Sligachan where there is a another camp site that has views across the loch. However everyone stops here at this crossroads on the old road bridge to view the falls. 

We take the road west from Sligachan leading towards Carbost and Portnalong where you can get marvellous views of the Cuillins. Just before these villages driving along a single track road on the flanks of the hills towards Glenbrittle you find the path to the famous Fairy Pools. The modest car park was full and today the road was packed with vehicles parked for over half a mile on the grass verges anywhere they could get a space. However before you turn the bend to drop over the hill to the car park is a cattle grid and there we found plenty of space to park albeit a longer and hilly walk to the footpath. it is quite a clim to get to the pools and the paths are uneven and worn due to the amount of footfall. Some intrepid youngsters were enjoying a shower under the falls and the deep pools. It is quite a fantastical place. You need to be fit and sure of your footing before you decide to explore the pools.

Not being alcohol drinkers we bypass the Talisker Distillery and had visited one in the past. We follow the road to Drynoch and then north to Dunvegan taking in the views on the way. Dunvegan Castle was the home of the chiefs of McLeod for almost 800 years. The harbour is pretty with small boats and yachts but no longer provides a ferry service. We then head east to Bernisdale and then north to Uig, which has a pier which had allowed the steamers to sail between Skye and other ports in the Western Isles. From Uig we head further north and stop to view Flora McDonald’s Monument a collection of traditional thatched blockhouses which showed how islanders used to live. 

Nearby is the actual monument to Flora who helped Bonnie Prince Charlie escape from his enemies. 

Passing through Duntulm and Flodigarry and Staffen. We stop off to view Kilt Rock Waterfall a 200’ vertiginous falls into the sea, so called because they resemble the pleats of a kilt. There is a small car park and a coffee wagon for visitors. Our next main stop is the Old Man of Storr, a few miles north of Portree and is a huge pinnacle of rock standing in front of the Store Ridge which rises to 2,300’. 

The story here is similar to that of Fairy Pools with lots of visitors wanting to see the rock. Again cars and coaches parked for half a mile along the road. The path again is steep and uneven and you can walk a long way to see this rock.

We then visit the main town of Portree which is bustling with tourists. 

Looking for somewhere to park the motorhome seemed not to be until we spotted the long term car park and plenty of room with marked bays for motorhomes. A walk up the steps into the town we were soon climbing down more steps to view the picturesque colourful houses on the waterfront. The town has banks and ATM’s and a Coop store which was full to capacity when we went in for some supplies with the queue to pay half way round the store. The town has spectacular mountain sceneries but where hasn’t on Skye. 

We enjoyed walking around this vibrant little town full of restaurants and gift shops. We head for our base at Broadford Camping Skye to a welcome haddock and chips from the local chippy and a well earned rest. we will carry happy memories of Skye, its ruggedness, mountains, scenery

and waterfalls.

Applecross to Skye

17 July 2018 Applecross to Broadford (Isle of Skye)

Today is decision time to make our way to Skye we need to get to the Skye Bridge at the

Kyle of Lochalash. Now most people travelling this route from Applecross are well aware of the famous cattle pass road called the “Bealach na baa” a very narrow single track road of steep ascent/decent with sharp hair pin bends that winds its way up to or out of Applecross depending on which way you are travelling. We have asked neighbouring motorhome drivers on our campsite their thoughts and as we have a smaller motorhome they encourage its to try it and see the magnificent views from the top. There are a lot of differing opinions on this. Many have made this journey without issue but we advise that you take it on with caution and with the respect it deserves. If you are a confident driver with a good head for heights and good reversing skills (It is not always the road itself but what you may meet going up or down it that can cause issues) then you should be ok.

The Bealach na Ba rises to a height of 2,053ft from sea level in about four miles, and is the most spectacular pass in Scotland. It also provides some of the most challenging driving in the country. It is single track throughout and the warning signs at its foot, including one deterring learner drivers, should be taken seriously. 

The crux of the pass is as the road climbs the headwall of the corrie to the east of the highest point. Here it zig-zags upwards in a way that feels more of an alpine experience. Having made the effort to get to the topof the Bealach na Ba, it is worth pausing in one of the parking areas to take in the views. 

We take the route and carefully make our way through with no problems. The views are magnificent and there is space at the top to park and take a short walk or a photo opportunity. The main users this morning seem to be motorcyclists and a couple of other motorhomes. We head towards the Kyle of Lochalsh to the bridge across to Skye. On the way we stop at Lochcarron for coffee and cake. Like many other loch side villages this is a pretty place with whitewashed cottages and a grassy area fronting the loch. 

We arrive over the Skye Bridge and make our way to Broadford the location of a brand new Caravan and Camping site - “Camping Skye’ a community company assisted by the Lottery Fund. (Camping Skye, Pairc nan Craobh, Broadford, Isle of Skye IV49 9PA. Camping Skye, the perfect place to pitch when exploring the Isle of Skye.+44 (0) 1471 550420
mail@campingskye.com). The site has only been open for 2 months and as yet does not accept tents as they are leaving the newly sown grass to mature. There are hardstandings for motorhomes and caravans and include spaces for the disabled. The facilities are perhaps as you might expect modern and spotlessly clean. We would highly recommend this site. All profits are ploughed back into other community projects.
The Isle of Skye is the largest and the most northerly of the Inner Hebrides. With a population of some 10,000 people, Skye measures some 50 miles from north to south and comprises a series of peninsulas radiating out in an irregular pattern from a mountainous core. It is still possible to pass "over the sea" to Skye using a choice of ferries, but since 1995 most visitors have reached the island over the Skye Bridge, which since 2004 has been toll free.
Broadford is a large village in the south of the island and has a large Coop supermarket, fuel station and other shops including a busy fish and chip shop. It makes a good base to visit Sleat often referred to as the Garden of Skye. Here you will find located Armadale Castle and Gardens. Armadale if the ferry point for Mallaig. Apart from a couple of shops, leather and local Scottish wear there is not much more to see other than the stunning views. On returning from Armadale we take a turning towards Achnacloich the start of a loop road which takes in the small villages of Old and Tarskavaig with the ancient Tokavaig

Gruinard Bay to Applecross

16 July 2018 - Gruinard Bay to Applecross
We say goodbye to Gruinard Bay and set off for our next destination which is Applecross Camping Site. We have a choice of taking the little longer route around the north and west of the Applecross Peninsula or another road taking us via the Bealach na baa drover’s road through he pass. We decide on the longer route. We pass through Kinlochewe sitting
at the junction of the A832 heading north-west to Gairloch and the A896 heading south- west into the remote districts of Torridon and Applecross. Kinlochewe lies close to but not quite at the south-eastern end of the beautiful Loch Maree, beyond which rise the fantastic rocky ramparts of Slioch, The Spear, a 3,215ft mountain and mile or so north-west of Kinlochewe is the Beinn Eighe Visitor Centre.

We head south-west, the road follows Glen Torridon beneath the looming presence of two magnificent mountains,Beinn Eighe (3,313ft) and Liathach (3,461ft). Both provide excellent
walking, but none of it for the inexperienced. The ground is rough and steep, the area remote, and weather in Torridon can change rapidly. At the end of Glen Torridon, where it meets Loch Torridon is the village of Torriden at the point where it meets the sea. We follow the road west along the northern shore of the loch which is both scenic and dramatic as it winds its way first along the shoreline and then climbs through cliffs and gorges. On the south side of Loch Torriden the road continues to the village of Sheildaig. This was worth a stop a it is a picturesque place adorned with whitewashed cottages set against a stunning mountain backdrop. Sheildaig would be a finalist in any "most picturesque village in Scotland" competition. Its location is truly superb, on the edge of Loch Shieldaig, an offshoot of Loch Torridon, and perhaps best viewed from the minor road that twists and turns its way along the north coast of the Applecross from a junction a mile or so south of the village - you can have your “Kodak” moment. From here it can be seen set against a backdrop that rises above its immediate headland and takes in the mighty mountains of Torridon and Beinn Allegin and Liathach in particular. The village itself is a string of largely whitewashed cottages and other buildings laid out along the shore of the loch with others scattered up the rising ground behind it. What is especially nice is the way the seaward side of the road through the village has been grassed over for the benefit of those wishing simply to enjoy the views, and apparently some of the finest sunsets imaginable. Another especially nice touch is the provision of parking that helps keep the village street itself clear

of the clutter of parked cars that detracts from so many Highland villages. 

Shieldaig comes complete with a small collection of tourist services, including a shop and a hotel. Near the end of the village overlooking the loch is the excellent “Nanny’s” coffee and tea room. It has been in existence for decades until the current owners demolished what was a tin shack and built a fit for purpose cafe. The home baked cakes and coffee are great and you can get local seafoods
From Sheildaig you have the option of taking in the remote Applecross Peninsula and its stunning views across to the northern end of Skye. There used to be only one road in, the Bealach na Ba, or Pass of the Cattle: steep, demanding - almost alpine in appearance - and apparently prone to problems in winter. The village of Applecross lies where the mountain road meets the sea. We have to decide on our route back either the return of our incoming journey around the west and north coasts of the peninsula and back to Sheildaig
a bit longer but more relaxing or the Bealach na Ba. The lochside road south of Lochcarron leads you past the old ferry slipway at Strome that once carried all traffic heading towards Kyle of Lochalsh. The narrows here are overlooked by the ruins of Strome Castle. The lochside road ends a couple of miles further south west in Ardaneaskan.

Gairloch

15 July 2018 Gruinard Bay
This is our second day as we are staying another night at Gruinard Beach. This is a small

campsite that would take about 15 motorhomes and caravans with a similar number of residential caravans and tent spaces. It is set adjoining the beach a mix of pebbles and stretches of white sands. There is nothing much in the village apart from a small Post Office and stores and a fuel station. The camp site is neat and tidy with all the amenities especially the newly opened showers - a delight. The views from our motorhome are second to none and I would rate this personally as the best site we have stayed on so far. It is so peaceful.
Today we have decided not to drive too far so ventured to Gairloch about 12 miles away. Bearing in mind it is Sunday it is very quiet with hardly anything open. However we park up on the front at Gairloch and walk along to the Mountain Coffee shop which shares it premises with the Hill Billy’s Book Shop. The bookshop has a very large selection from the usual Scottish fiction writers, to children’s books and non- fiction together with travel books and maps. We enjoyed browsing then going next door for a coffee and paused over the choice of the selection of cakes and gateaux. There is a conservatory adjoining a nice place to chill out.
Gairloch is the collective name for a number of small settlements overlooking Loch Gairloch. It has been a popular tourist resort since Victorian times, attractive for its scenic location and fine sandy beaches. Sunsets here can be magical and the views west to Skye and inland to the Torridon mountains are spectacular.

We return along the road from whence we came to Poolewe and the Inverewe Garden. There is plenty of parking space here for a motorhome and the property now run by the Scottish National Trust accept our National Trust cards. The car park seems busy with 4 coaches and numerous cars. The gardens are amazing especially the Walled garden insulated by the North Atlantic Drift it seems plants from across the world thrive here.

Poolewe sits in the shelter of Loch Ewe, at the mouth of the River Ewe where it tumbles
down from Loch Maree. It is a pretty place in an area of spectacular scenery. Inverewe
Garden is half a mile across the bay from Poolewe on the A832 and is open all year.
Warmed by the Gulf Stream, the site was developed by Osgood Mackensie from 1862 until
his death in 1922. He collected plants from all over the world for the garden he built there.
He imported Irish soil and worked to create themed gardens linked by a maze of paths.
The NTS Visitor Centre on site has a display charting the development of the garden and
also has an excellent book shop.Osgood Mackensie who started the garden was
succeeded by his daughter, Mairi, transforming what was once a barren windswept headland into a unique and beautiful garden.

There are pathways leading you to feature ponds and areas with plants from Chile, China, Tasmania and the Himalayas. There are great view points across Loch Ewe. The house is also interesting and seems to be wood panelled and to me seemed very homely again with the most panoramic views. We spent a good couple of hours traversing the gardens and house. The SNT also have a cafe adjacent to the car park serving hot and cold meals and snacks. There is inside an amazing mosaic.

We return back to our campsite visiting our neighbouring village Aultbea running alongside the Loch, north from Poolewe one of a number of settlements scattered along the north

eastern shore of Loch Ewe. It then cuts inland, to emerge at Laide the location of our camp site confronted by fabulous views over Gruinard Bay to Gruinard Island and far beyond. A series of attractive beaches skirt the bay and a number are easily reached from the main road. The beach at Mellon Udrigle offers especially spectacular views. There is a small
museum nearby telling the story of the World War II Russian/Arctic Convoys which embarked from here and the deep water loch remains one of only three berths for nuclear submarines.
An early evening walk alongside the Loch at our campsite we see the clouds lift off the mountains and the tide starts to come in. Another wonderful day in the Highlands.

Achmelvich to Gruinard Bay

14 July 2018 Achmelvich to Gruinard Bay
Leaving our campsite we had heard about Clachtoll Beach and took a detour to visit. Clachtoll is a great beach! and lies on the B869 a twisting single track road that follows the coast from Lochinver north then east to Kylesku. We had avoided using this road when travelling to Achmelvich the previous day. From our campsite Cjlachtoll was only a 3 mile detour.

At first sight Clachtoll seems to comprise a scatter of crofts and houses, mostly to the east side of the road. The expansive grassy area to the west of the road is given over to the Clachtoll Beach Campsite. Non-campers who just want to visit the beach need to follow the signs along a narrow road through the campsite to a car park next to the Clachtoll Ranger Hut. Clachtoll faces west over the Bay of Clachtoll. The southern half of the head of the bay, south west from the car park, provides a truly glorious beach of white sand lapped by

idyllic turquoise water. You would imagine the Caribbean but today was cloudy and no sun but the sand was pristine. From the headlands either side of the beach you gain stunning mountain views to the south. For us this was enough in itself to make the short detour worthwhile.
North west from the car park is another inlet, which in marked contrast to its neighbour comprises layers of sloping rock strata and stone. This, and the rocks of the headlands either side of the sandy beach, make Clachtoll a renowned spot for geologists. Apparently it shows evidence of an ancient land surface covered by later rocks, and guarantees that you are as likely to see visitors heading for the beach with helmets and geologists' hammers as with flippers and snorkels...
Between the two inlets is a grassy headland on which you find a salmon bothy. This small stone building is part of the Clachtoll Salmon Station, preserved by the Assynt Historical Society. Displays show how the salmon station, which closed in 1994, would have operated. Less obvious than the bothy, and a little to the north east of it, is the ice house in which the catch would be kept until transported to market. Close by is a memorial to the Reverend Norman MacLeod, born in Clachtoll in 1780. He was a preacher who defied conventional church teachings and led many of his followers first to Canada, and later to Australia and New Zealand.
From here we continue our journey south on the A837 to our next destination of 2 overnight stays at Gruinard Bay.

We drive through he mountains surrounded by the peaks of Ben More assent massif through the mountains, moors and mist. We stop at various points to take in the breathtaking scenery especially at Ardveck castle the remains standing out from the greenery and colour of the loch. Then on to Knockan Crag a national nature reserve we are now on the A835 towards Ullapool a renowned geological site where geologist James Nicol proffered his theory of thrust faults why the younger rocks lay on top of older formations. There is a lot of information here and a life size bronzes of geologists Peach and Horne.

We head on through he magnificent scenery to Ullapool and the weather has become sunny. Ullapool was famous for its abundant herring fishery and played an important part in the village’s economy. In fact the village was designed by Thomas telford who had engineered the Caledonian Canal and some of his original buildings still stand around the harbourside. We make our way to the car park but it is full as today the Rotary Club of Ullapool are holding their open pier day. It seems lots of visitors have flocked here. We find a quiet street to park and walk to the harbourside. here the Lochiver Life Boat is providing an attraction and people are welcomed on board. We stop for a coffee and sandwich and then pay a small donation to go on the pier. here there is a Scottish Pipe Band, Highland dancing and gazebos selling crafts or raffles. 

We head for a very large ship with ‘ COASTGUARD' emblazoned thereon. It is interesting as this is a specially designed ship for assisting others in trouble and has a large scale with mechanism capable of towing 120 tons. It is an Italian ship contracted to HM Coastguard to patrol the Minches between the Orkneys and Sheltand Islands. We were given a guided tour by the 1st Mate and shown from the bow where a helicopter could land to the Bridge with all of its technical

equipment. near the car park is a handy Tesco supermarket where we were able to stock up on supplies.

Heading out of Ullapool we catch a sharp shower of rain and join the A832 at Braemore Junction looking out for the signs to the Falls of Measach. Not far after you turn off is a carpaprk and the land is owned by the Scottish National Trust who request a donation to visit the bridge across the Corrieshalloch Gorge. This is a spectacularly deep, mile long box canyon through which the River Droma descends towards Loch Broom, en route forming the 160ft high Falls of Measach formed by glacial melt waters. There is a modern suspension bridge across the Gorge (only 6 people at a time) looking down the near 200’ drop. A couple of hundred yards further along is a modern view point which takes in the Gorge, Bridge and falls. 

We continue our drive along the road that tracks high above Little Loch Broom with spectacular veins across to the mountains on the other side. we now skirt the shores of Gruinard Bay looking for our next base tonight, Gruinard Bay Caravan and Camping Site. Gruinard Bay has only a few houses bit has a handy Post Office and stores and a fuel station.

Gruinard Bay ranks amongst the finest sandy bays in this part of the Highlands -it is a beautiful sweep of golden sand, especially at low tide; it is seen particularly well from an elevated layby a short distance west along the main road. We are fortunate as our campsite is almost on the beach and we park up for the night yards from the white sands overlooking the 180 degree views of mountains and loch. There is a short walk (3.2kms). The walk itself begins from the car park east of the river near Little Gruinard. You can cross over the road and go down the wooden broadwalk to reach the sands of Gruinard beach. Turn left along the beach; before reaching the river, look out for a path leading back up the dunes - this leads back to the road at a pedestrian gate.Turn right along the road (care - it can be busy) for a short distance before turning left through the gate just before the bridge. The path - initially more of a muddy ATV track - swings left to avoid the gorse bushes, but it's worth detouring for a look upriver first. Back on the muddy track, this soon becomes an indistinct path - follow the clearest trod past the area of gorse bushes, eventually losing a little height. The path becomes clearer as it runs along a short distance above the river, and eventually it runs beside the water itself.After about a kilometre and a half the path reaches a viewpoint for the Eas Dubh a Ghlinne Ghaibh, a fine and very attractive waterfall. The path does continue further upstream but runs across a steep slope above a gorge, and it isn't really possible to make a circular walk, so it is probably better to return the same way. Rather than head back across the beach, it is possible to shortcut from near the end of the glen section to head more directly down to a stile giving access to the car park.

Durness to Lochinver

13 July 2018 Durness to LochinverMoving on from Durness and down the North West coast we noticed the scenery changing quite drastically, every twist and turn in the road gives you a different stunning view and there are so many photo opportunities, so have your camera at the ready! This part of the route probably requires the most consideration and concentration when driving, as it is nearly all single track with many climbs and descents as we travel through the mountains. We could wax lyrical about how beautiful this part of the route is and we promise that when you witness it yourself you will agree! So taking the stretch from Durness to Lochinver
which is roughly 50 miles, could take less than 2 hours to drive straight but we did not want to do that as there was far too much to explore even in this little area. If you have the confidence and the right sort of vehicle you could take in the Drumbeg loop, which has has some steep ascent and descents and not suitable for caravans so do take it easy.

Scourie is some 25 miles south of Durness and is a landscape of lochs and lochans and is a prime fly fishing territory. You will see the fisherman as you pass by many with rods

attached to their vehicles looking for their favourite spots. We soon enter the Assynt Region which has a surreal quality which makes the transition from Sutherland into Wester Ross. The landscape of mountain ranges with extraordinary peaks so we take our time to take in all this magnificent scenery twisting past remote crofts, with headlands and glimpses of the Outer Hebrides. Winding our way downhilll, we see the newly constructed bridge at Kylesku. Good place to stop and have a coffee in the Kylesku Hotel and enjoying the sunshine overlooking the water we spot seals. From here you can get a boat trip to view the highest waterfall in Britain some 650 feet at the head of Loch Glencoul, otherwise it is a 5 mile trek that heads east from a car park 2 miles outside of Kylesku. The boat trip lasting 1.5 hours provides a history of the bridge , old and new, some birdwatching and watching the baby seals then to take in a view of the waterfall. The cost £30 per adult and the boat leaves at 11.00am each day opposite the hotel. (01971 502231)
We head south and decide not to take the road via Drumbeg to Lochinver but stay on the A837 stopping off for fuel at the Highland Fuel Station in the town. Lochinver seems a busy little fishing town

 We then head to our campsite for tonight at Shore Caravan Site (01571 844393) at Achmelvich Beach a beautiful crescent shaped beach of white sand amongst the turquoise water. The campsite is situated in a hollow surrounded by rocky outbreaks - quite idyllic and seems popular with families as the beach is just 50 yards walk away. This is a family run site and they have their own chip shop adjacent to their house and once you order your food it will be cooked in front of you so is piping hot and fresh. Like so many places in the Highlands there is virtually no free wifi and at times no mobile service or 3 or 4G. On this site to make a call we were advised to climb the hill behind the shop and stand in a certain spot to get a signal - yes it worked!

Lochinver - Don’t travel this part of the route without a trip to the small fishing port ofLochinver. As well as many independent shops there is a must visit to the Lochinver larder if you are a fan of pies! Random but true, they stock a huge range of fruit and savoury pies to eat in and take away and they are delicious! Your onward journey will take you to Ullapool and if you have room after the pies from Lochinver then it’s a great place for fish and chips! Ullapool is another busy fishing port of the West coast, a small town with plenty of shops and restaurants with great views down the loch, you can while away many hours watching the boats and ferries sale in and out to the Western Isles.

John O Groats to Durness

12 July 2018 John O Groats to Durness
From JOG we drive a few more miles to Dunnet Head, the mostly northerly point of
mainland Britain. Dunnet Bay is a sweeping arc of white sandy beach backed by rolling
sand dunes. Stretching for over 2 miles, the bay is fairly sheltered from the elements and offers great opportunities to sunbathe, paddle, swim and indulge in other beach sports. The beach is a surfer’s haven and offers some quite dramatic surf when the winds are high. There are excellent wildlife spotting opportunities in the bay and a visitor centre at the north end provides details of what can be seen. As we start to work our way along the North coast we encounter single track roads and the landscape becomes more remote and barren, but with that you also get some of the most beautiful sandy beaches and coves to visit, although a dip in the sea maybe more than a little cold! Gradually we worked our way along the coast and reached Durness. From John O Groats to Durness it is about 90 miles and with quite a lot of small and single track road, it will take you about 2 and a half hours roughly although that doesn’t account for many photo stops or time to stop and savour the view with a cup of tea and slice of cake! We spent most of the day enjoying the views and scenery.

We continue our drive along the single track roads with passing places through wonderful scenery such as Coldbeckie Sands, through the Kyle of Tongue and alongside Loch Eriba, Ceannabeinne which divides Loch Eriba from the Kyle of Durness. After a long drive today some 90 miles we arrive at Sango Sands Oasis Campsite. Yet another treat with two beautiful beaches of white sand and blue water. This is a great campsite with some terrific views over the sea.

Durness isn't the most north westerly point in mainland Scotland, but it is certainly the most

north westerly village. It marks the point at which the main coast road from Thurso via Tongue turns left and heads south towards Scourie and Ulkllapool. In this remote and lonely spot you will find all the services you could need, including a petrol station, shops, cash machine. It also has an excellent Tourist Information Centre. We felt is was home to one of the best located camping and caravanning sites anywhere, on the cliffs overlooking Sango Bay, one of many excellent beaches in the area. A mile or so to the east is one of Durness's main attractions, the spectacular Smoo Cave a combined sea and freshwater cave complex which you can explore by boat or by the path from the car park on the cliffs above. Evidence has been found of human occupation here dating back 5,000 years. Elsewhere in the area archaeology suggests pictish farming settlements going back over 2,000 years. We parked in the car park adjacent to the cliff path - not much room for more than a couple of motorhomes and cars. The steps down to the beach are steep and uneven but you are faced with the huge mouth of the cave. Entrance inside is free, walking over a wooden bridge, to view further inside. For the more adventurous there are tours by local cavers starting with a ride in a rib then walking. Not for those who are claustrophobic! There are many birds nesting in the roof of the cave.
To the west lies Cape Wrath. There is no direct access to it by road, but a passenger ferry does cross the Kyle of Durness from Keodale, two miles south west of Durness. This connects with a minibus that makes the 14 mile trip across the rugged landscape to the lighthouse at Cape Wrath itself. The dangers here are not just the obvious natural ones: this area is also used as a naval gunnery range. Once at Cape Wrath you can either make the minibus trip back to the ferry, or turn south to walk the wild and exceptionally lonely eight miles to Sandwood Bay. Durness is now one of the few remaining places of any size in mainland Scotland that you can only access by single track road The white lines cease some fourteen miles south on the A838, and the road east along the north coast of Scotland to Tongue and Thurso has many single track stretches.

Durness is a great area for many things, good walks on the lovely white sandy beaches, and our visit to Smoo cave was an absolute must and if you have a sweet tooth then you definitely have to call into Cocoa Mountain for their amazing hot chocolate and maybe sample a handmade chocolate or two. We can highly recommend the campsite at Sango Sands Oasis as it is very conveniently located with a pub serving good meals on site but last food orders is 8.30pm. There is also a local and well stocked shop nearby just handy to stock up on any little daily essentials.

Golspie to John O Groats

We drive on from Golspie to JOG = 68 miles (1.5hours), stopping at the picturesque harbour at Wick.

From there  we gradually wind our way along the coast to the very top where we arrive at John O Groats and there is always time for a picture under the famous sign.

The small coastal village of John o’ Groats is the starting point for many embarking on the famous 'End to End' journey to Land's End in England, some 876 miles away. Situated in an extreme location, this Highland village combines dramatic, unspoilt scenery and fascinating wildlife, including a breathtaking array of birdlife on the local cliffs, as well as seals, dolphins, minke and killer whales in the surrounding waters. Walkers can follow scenic coastal paths from John o’ Groats along the north coast, from the east of the town to Duncansby Head Lighthouse, and onto the massive rock stacks called the Stacks of Duncansby. Boat trips are available from the town to and around the wild cliffs of Duncansby Head, which reach heights of 200 ft and are home to many nestling birds. Orkney lies just 6 miles away from the town.  JOG Campsite is right on the edge of the coast a good place to stay to take in the wildlife or to take a trip over to the Orkney Isles.Otherwise there is not much to do other than the obligatory photograph under that famous sign so the following morning we drive along the northern coast just a few miles to the Castle of May where we stopped to looked at the gardens and a lovely coffee in the visitor centre. The small coastal village of John o’ Groats is the starting point for many embarking on the famous 'End to End' journey to Land's End in England, some 876 miles away. Situated in an extreme location, this Highland village combines dramatic, unspoilt scenery and fascinating wildlife, including a breathtaking array of birdlife on the local cliffs, as well as seals, dolphins, minke and killer whales in the surrounding waters. Walkers can follow scenic coastal paths from John o’ Groats along the north coast, from the east of the town to Duncansby Head Lighthouse, and onto the massive rock stacks called the Stacks of Duncansby. Boat trips are available from the town to and around the wild cliffs of Duncansby Head, which reach heights of 200 ft and are home to many nestling birds. Perhaps we should have taken the trip across to the Orkneys - maybe on the next visit!

Dornoch - Golspie and Shin Falls

11 July 2018  Dornoch to John O Groats

After a short walk around the town we visit the weekly market with stalls of fresh fish, meat,, cheeses and other handicraft goods. Three young children are attracting the visitors in their kilts and playing violin and accordion. We move on to the Cathedral a wonderful place where most would recognise as the venue for the wedding of Maddonna. 

Returning to the camp site we soon set off towards Lairg to visit Shin Falls where we saw salmon leaping. It is just 19 miles from Dornoch, on the road from Bonar Bridge to Lairg. The Falls are spectacular in their own right and very easily accessible, just a short walk from the road and car park.For much of the year Shin Falls are recognised as one of Scotland’s best places to see salmon leaping. Depending on the weather, fish can usually be seen jumping from mid May until late autumn as they make their way up river to spawn.

The new Falls of Shin Visitor Centre (Lottery Funded) opened in May 2017 and has a restaurant, shop and adventure playground. There are a range of woodland walks from the Falls car park from 20 minutes to over an hour. There is also a woodland play area (Suitable for children and adults!). You get a great view of the river and falls and if you wait and concentrate will soon see the salmon leaping. 

We continued on to Bonar Bridge  then along  the A9 at Golspie on the coast the location of Dunrobin Castle. 

Dunrobin Castle is the most northerly of Scotland's great houses and the largest in the Northern Highlands with 189 rooms. A visit to Dunrobin castle could literally take up a day with its beautiful gardens, interesting tour, popular falconry displays and unexpected museum, this is a highly recommended stop, the castle is not open all year so you need to  check. The cost for an adult is £11.50. Dunrobin Castle is also one of Britain's oldest continuously inhabited houses dating back to the early 1300s, home to the Earls and later, the Dukes of Sutherland. The Castle, which resembles a French château with its towering conical spires, has seen the architectural influences of Sir Charles Barry, who designed London’s Houses of Parliament, and Scotland’s own Sir Robert Lorimer. The Castle was used as a naval hospital during the First World War and as a boys’ boarding school from 1965 to 1972. Dunrobin Castle is on the east coast of the Northern Highlands overlooking the Moray Firth, just north of the villages of Golspie and Dornoch (famous for its cathedral and Royal Dornoch Golf Club).

Inverness to Dornoch

This is our journey around Scotland’s North Coast 500. This is the first time we have been in a motorhome and our only experience of caravanning was some 30+ years ago when our children were younger. We thought we would like to try this experience before perhaps purchasing a motorhome of our own. 

I have visited the north of Scotland before but that was as a young teenager when my parents took their holidays in Dornoch travelling from the west country by train. Another great experience travelling by sleeper train to Stiling then across a branch line to Bonar Bridge. We stayed in a cottage in Gilchrist Square. We travelled around the Highlands in a minibus owned by a local coach company driven by a gentleman called John Grant. We had been to Shin Falls, Ullapool and Thurso. I had many fond memories and wanted to retrace some of the steps. 

10 July 2018  Inverness to Dornoch across the Black Isle via Cromarty = 74 miles (2hours)

Arrived Inverness Airport at 12.00midday. met by Fiona of Coast to Glen Motorhomes to pick up Elddis Accordo 125 motorhome for  our start/finish line of the North Coast 500. She gives a simple explanation of how things work and we are soon on our way. We begin our travels up the A9 and once you are over the bridge taking in the views of the Moray Firth you hit the Black Isle, a place where you could easily spend a week exploring what it has to offer. Lovely villages to visit such as Cromartywith its little shops and cafes, fabulous beaches for walks including Chanonry Pointthat is a popular place to spot bottle nosed dolphins when they come in to feed in the bustling waters of the changing tides. Cromarty stands close to the tip of the of the peninsula known as the Black Isle, which projects into the North Sea between the Moray Firth to the south and the Cromarty Firth to the north. It benefits from the protective shadow of the Sutors of Cromarty, the high ground to the east, and is the principle settlement on the Black Isle. 

The village looks north across the Cromarty Firth towards the fabrication yards at Nigg. It occupies a triangle of ground, with sea on two sides, and you get the very strong sense of a history that is intimately tied to the sea and to seafaring. Cromarty's major phase of development was overseen by the local laird, George Ross of Pitkerrie and Cromarty, in 1770s.

There is a two car ferry that will take you across to Nigg, but only in the summer months - no good for us in a motorhome. 

We spend little time at Cromarty parking on the Links and walking around the small town (village) taking in the galleries, pottery, Hugh Miller’;s house and a visit to the Cromarty Store to use the cash machine. A walk around will take no more than an hour to take in the pretty cottages. We finish up on Rosemarkie Beach for a cup of tea and some light refreshment before setting off to our next stop, Dornoch. 

                             

                             

Prior to arriving in Dornoch we approach the town of Tain, and able to stop of at ASDA’s new supermarket to do some initial shopping for our trip. We soon reach the historic town of Dornoch with its impressive cathedral. This is a distance of about 90 miles and without stopping would take about 2 hours. We arrive early evening at the GDornoch Caravan and Camp Site situated on the Links adjacent to the Royal Dornoch Golf Club  the most northerly championship course. The camp site is well situated 10 minutes from the town but on the evening was very quiet and apart from the pubs no where open. We had a quick recce of the town and found Gilchrist Square where I gad stayed as a young boy. However you will need to stop to take in the views and photo opportunities. There is the  museum and lots of quaint shops and cafes and Dornoch is also blessed with miles of sandy beach for a stroll through the dunes anytime of the night and day. Dornoch is an east coast town by-passed by the A9, and as a result probably too easy to overlook. It can be a busy place, but if you explore it in the evening or early morning, with fewer cars and fewer people, you begin to appreciate the beauty of the stone, almost pink in some lights, from which so many of Dornoch's buildings are constructed. This is best appreciated by standing in the main square, again ideally in the absence of traffic or parked vehicles. To the north is located the Cathedral. To the south is a wonderful run of buildings including the Old Town Jail now converted to a gift and fancy goods store but you can still see the old cells. There is also the excellent  Dornoch Castle Hotel whose origins are not as a castle but rather as the Bishop's Palace built to accompany the cathedral. Many other buildings are, in their own smaller way, just as impressive. 

Beyond the golf course (more accurately, courses) lies the sea and some wonderful beaches. These turn more rocky to the north, providing hours of enjoyment for those who want nothing more than watching a world in miniature in a rock pool.