John O Groats to Durness

12 July 2018 John O Groats to Durness
From JOG we drive a few more miles to Dunnet Head, the mostly northerly point of
mainland Britain. Dunnet Bay is a sweeping arc of white sandy beach backed by rolling
sand dunes. Stretching for over 2 miles, the bay is fairly sheltered from the elements and offers great opportunities to sunbathe, paddle, swim and indulge in other beach sports. The beach is a surfer’s haven and offers some quite dramatic surf when the winds are high. There are excellent wildlife spotting opportunities in the bay and a visitor centre at the north end provides details of what can be seen. As we start to work our way along the North coast we encounter single track roads and the landscape becomes more remote and barren, but with that you also get some of the most beautiful sandy beaches and coves to visit, although a dip in the sea maybe more than a little cold! Gradually we worked our way along the coast and reached Durness. From John O Groats to Durness it is about 90 miles and with quite a lot of small and single track road, it will take you about 2 and a half hours roughly although that doesn’t account for many photo stops or time to stop and savour the view with a cup of tea and slice of cake! We spent most of the day enjoying the views and scenery.

We continue our drive along the single track roads with passing places through wonderful scenery such as Coldbeckie Sands, through the Kyle of Tongue and alongside Loch Eriba, Ceannabeinne which divides Loch Eriba from the Kyle of Durness. After a long drive today some 90 miles we arrive at Sango Sands Oasis Campsite. Yet another treat with two beautiful beaches of white sand and blue water. This is a great campsite with some terrific views over the sea.

Durness isn't the most north westerly point in mainland Scotland, but it is certainly the most

north westerly village. It marks the point at which the main coast road from Thurso via Tongue turns left and heads south towards Scourie and Ulkllapool. In this remote and lonely spot you will find all the services you could need, including a petrol station, shops, cash machine. It also has an excellent Tourist Information Centre. We felt is was home to one of the best located camping and caravanning sites anywhere, on the cliffs overlooking Sango Bay, one of many excellent beaches in the area. A mile or so to the east is one of Durness's main attractions, the spectacular Smoo Cave a combined sea and freshwater cave complex which you can explore by boat or by the path from the car park on the cliffs above. Evidence has been found of human occupation here dating back 5,000 years. Elsewhere in the area archaeology suggests pictish farming settlements going back over 2,000 years. We parked in the car park adjacent to the cliff path - not much room for more than a couple of motorhomes and cars. The steps down to the beach are steep and uneven but you are faced with the huge mouth of the cave. Entrance inside is free, walking over a wooden bridge, to view further inside. For the more adventurous there are tours by local cavers starting with a ride in a rib then walking. Not for those who are claustrophobic! There are many birds nesting in the roof of the cave.
To the west lies Cape Wrath. There is no direct access to it by road, but a passenger ferry does cross the Kyle of Durness from Keodale, two miles south west of Durness. This connects with a minibus that makes the 14 mile trip across the rugged landscape to the lighthouse at Cape Wrath itself. The dangers here are not just the obvious natural ones: this area is also used as a naval gunnery range. Once at Cape Wrath you can either make the minibus trip back to the ferry, or turn south to walk the wild and exceptionally lonely eight miles to Sandwood Bay. Durness is now one of the few remaining places of any size in mainland Scotland that you can only access by single track road The white lines cease some fourteen miles south on the A838, and the road east along the north coast of Scotland to Tongue and Thurso has many single track stretches.

Durness is a great area for many things, good walks on the lovely white sandy beaches, and our visit to Smoo cave was an absolute must and if you have a sweet tooth then you definitely have to call into Cocoa Mountain for their amazing hot chocolate and maybe sample a handmade chocolate or two. We can highly recommend the campsite at Sango Sands Oasis as it is very conveniently located with a pub serving good meals on site but last food orders is 8.30pm. There is also a local and well stocked shop nearby just handy to stock up on any little daily essentials.

Golspie to John O Groats

We drive on from Golspie to JOG = 68 miles (1.5hours), stopping at the picturesque harbour at Wick.

From there  we gradually wind our way along the coast to the very top where we arrive at John O Groats and there is always time for a picture under the famous sign.

The small coastal village of John o’ Groats is the starting point for many embarking on the famous 'End to End' journey to Land's End in England, some 876 miles away. Situated in an extreme location, this Highland village combines dramatic, unspoilt scenery and fascinating wildlife, including a breathtaking array of birdlife on the local cliffs, as well as seals, dolphins, minke and killer whales in the surrounding waters. Walkers can follow scenic coastal paths from John o’ Groats along the north coast, from the east of the town to Duncansby Head Lighthouse, and onto the massive rock stacks called the Stacks of Duncansby. Boat trips are available from the town to and around the wild cliffs of Duncansby Head, which reach heights of 200 ft and are home to many nestling birds. Orkney lies just 6 miles away from the town.  JOG Campsite is right on the edge of the coast a good place to stay to take in the wildlife or to take a trip over to the Orkney Isles.Otherwise there is not much to do other than the obligatory photograph under that famous sign so the following morning we drive along the northern coast just a few miles to the Castle of May where we stopped to looked at the gardens and a lovely coffee in the visitor centre. The small coastal village of John o’ Groats is the starting point for many embarking on the famous 'End to End' journey to Land's End in England, some 876 miles away. Situated in an extreme location, this Highland village combines dramatic, unspoilt scenery and fascinating wildlife, including a breathtaking array of birdlife on the local cliffs, as well as seals, dolphins, minke and killer whales in the surrounding waters. Walkers can follow scenic coastal paths from John o’ Groats along the north coast, from the east of the town to Duncansby Head Lighthouse, and onto the massive rock stacks called the Stacks of Duncansby. Boat trips are available from the town to and around the wild cliffs of Duncansby Head, which reach heights of 200 ft and are home to many nestling birds. Perhaps we should have taken the trip across to the Orkneys - maybe on the next visit!