ZIMBABWE
18 August 2010
18 August 2010
We arrived in Harare having flown from Heathrow to Johannesburg and transferred to SAA for the 1 ½ hour flight to Harare. On arrival finding Lyn’s suitcase missing with all of her clothes and the presents for the family. We make the necessary reports and are greeted by Lucy and John and taken to their home at 22 Epping Road, Mountpleasant, Harare. They have a beautiful 4 bedroom bungalow set in its own grounds with a wall with razor wire surrounding it and a security guard at the gate. We meet Brian the guard, Tambo who deals with the housework and Lazarus the gardener who lives with his wife Joyce and 5 of his 6 children in a small house in the grounds. Also we get to meet Simba and Nala the puppies who seem to have grown full size in their 6 months of life.
During the trip I was able to go to a Rotary Club - Harare Dawn 2000 (34) (I)W0645 Lucy Ibottson Centre, 6th Street, Herbert Chitepo
Avenue, Harare, P Michael Manga 610 Rugare Close, Greystone Park, ZW- Harare.
The dogs are very active and need a good walk so we go to the National Botanical Gardens which have obviously been left to grow wild but the dogs enjoy the space and water.
For anyone interested in Zimbabwe plants or woodland habitats this is a good place to visit.
It is a great place to walk one's dog, have a light meal in the restaurant, and generally enjoy the different woodland environments. For anyone needing some fresh air, but not wishing to travel far, what could be a better place to walk around?
For anyone interested in Zimbabwe plants or woodland habitats this is a good place to visit.
It is a great place to walk one's dog, have a light meal in the restaurant, and generally enjoy the different woodland environments. For anyone needing some fresh air, but not wishing to travel far, what could be a better place to walk around?
The National Botanic Garden of Zimbabwe is situated about 4 km North of Harare City Centre in the suburb of Alexandra Park. It also houses the National Herbarium of Zimbabwe. The gardens have an area of almost 7 square kilometres. Initially established as a recreation area in 1902, it became the National Botanic Gardens in 1962 under the direction of Dr. Hyram Wilder. Half of the gardens are devoted to indigenous plants from Zimbabwe’s woodlands and include most of the 750 species found in the country. Other areas contain plants typical to the African continent including rare and endangered species, as well as exotics from South America, India, Australia and the Far East.
Harare ,before 1982 known as Salisbury is the largest city and capital of Zimbabwe. It has an estimated population of 1,600,000, with 2,800,000 in its metropolitan area (2006). Administratively, Harare is an independent city equivalent to a province. It is Zimbabwe's largest city and its administrative, commercial, and communications centre. The city is a trade centre for tobacco, maize, cotton, and citrus fruits. Manufactures include textiles, steel, and chemicals, and gold is mined in the area. Harare is situated at an elevation of 1483 metres (4865 feet) and its climate falls into the warm temperate category.
Harare is the site of the University of Zimbabwe, the largest institution of higher learning in Zimbabwe, which is situated about 5 km north of the city. Numerous suburbs surround the city, retaining the names colonial administrators gave them during the 19th century, such as Warren Park, Borrowdale, Mount Pleasant, Marlborough, Tynwald and Avondale. The largest and second oldest suburb is Highfield which incorporates numerous townships including but not limited to Western Triangle, Canaan, Egypt, Lusaka and Jerusalem.
In the early 21st century Harare has been adversely affected by the political and economic crisis that is currently plaguing Zimbabwe, after the contested 2002 presidential election and 2005 parliamentary elections. The elected council was replaced by a government-appointed commission for alleged inefficiency, but essential services such as rubbish collection and street repairs have rapidly worsened, and are now virtually non-existent. In May 2006 the Zimbabwean newspaper the Financial Gazette, described the city in an editorial as a "sunshine city-turned-sewage farm".
In May 2005 the Zimbabwean government demolished shanties and backyard cottages in Harare and the other cities in the country in Operation Murambatsvina ("Drive Out Trash"). This caused a sharp reaction in the international community because it took place without prior warning and no advance plans were made to provide alternative housing. It was widely alleged that the true purpose of the campaign was to punish the urban poor for supporting the opposition Movement for Democratic Change and to reduce the likelihood of mass action against the government by driving people out of the cities. The government claimed it was necessitated by a rise of criminality and disease. This was followed by Operation Chikerema (Operation "Better Living") a year later which consisted of building concrete housing.
In 2009, Harare was voted to be the toughest city to live in according to the Economist Intelligence Unit's liveability poll.
Zimbabwe’s place in the world
Mugabe remains, unreported but still belligerent; his continued presence illustrating the weakness of Zimbabwe’s newly formed government and the intransigence of his most important partner, China. The continued destruction of Zimbabwe’s economy and social fabric poses in microcosm the dilemmas that confront Western governments: do they confront corrupt regimes and the rising influence of the BRIC countries if doing so requires changing their own character?
Zimbabwe is one of the most devastating expressions of this dilemma. If Tony Blair once talked about Africa’s debt as the scar on the conscience of the world, Zimbabwe’s situation is the open wound. For once, the statistics speak clearly. Zimbabwe has the highest public debt ratio in the world, a staggering 304.3% of GDP. 95% of the population are unemployed and 68% live below the official poverty line of 13 Trillion Zimbabwean dollars a day.
Zimbabwe’s situation is a microcosm of the wider foreign policy situation writ large. Here, the liberal, morality-inflected foreign policy of Western states falls short while the cold economic and political rationality of Chinese foreign policy is played out to its fullest.
While the UK sends aid and greets each horror with the same outraged rhetoric, the situation never changes. Fine words make little difference in Zimbabwe at present. Moreover, regional interlocuters are aware of this blind spot of Western actions. South African president Jacob Zuma is to arrive in the UK in the next month to press Gordon Brown’s administration to drop sanctions against Zimbabwe, a step likely designed to ease the pressure of immigration flows into South Africa. Zuma’s actions encapsulate the dilemma of Western governments: should they attempt to work with Mugabe or attempt to actively force Mugabe out?
This dilemma is compounded by the quiet, but determined rise of China in Zimbabwe. In comparison to the effete, confused posturing of the UK, China has its answer set in stone: they will actively support whoever guarantees them access to natural resource, including vast platinum resources, and rising influence across Africa. A 2005 New York Times article first commented on Mugabe’s self-styled “Look East” policy that has seen a vast movement towards China, an attempt not just to thumb his nose at old colonial masters, but to guarantee his own stability. Over the last 10 years Chinese companies have won massive agricultural, defence and hydroelectric contracts, while it seems that a Memorandum of Understanding has been signed over the last year for a $5billion stake in Zimbabwe’s vast platinum reserves.
Critically, this money and influence comes unburdened by criticism of Mugabe or Zimbabwean politics. So often, British and European aid finds itself accompanied by sanctions and criticism, essentially taking away with one hand what it gives with its other. In contrast, China has opened up a vast and uncritical supply line. So while Western foreign policy is driven by a desire to impose standards on regime and improve them, a desire that sees their policy falls between stools so often, Chinese foreign policy is simply driven by self interest. Though this is frequently cloaked in artful rhetoric, the simple fact of self interest remains: it drives the paradigms that are dividing the world.Victoria Falls
Named after a local Nhanzwa chief, Hwange National Park is the largest Park in Zimbabwe occupying roughly 14 650 square kms. It is located in the northwest corner of the country about one hour south of the Mighty Victoria Falls.
We saw 4 out 5 of the big 5 animals, and on one of the night drives we were lucky enough to find two lions, a male and female and were able to get quite close. We saw elephants and so many different species of birds and other animals and in fact we saw it all as Hwange National Park is not short of animals. We went in August and there seemed plenty of animals and if anyone is wanting to have an experience of a lifetime then this is the place, a truly amazing place on earth.
Some of the most majestic granite scenery in the world is found in the Matobo Hills. It is here that the hopes, trials and tribulations of the Bushmen (San people) are recorded in the ancient rock art. Mammal and bird species are prolific and include the highest concentration of Leopard and Black Eagle in the world.At the base of Camp Amalinda is a large swimming pool with comfortable lounges and a bar, all overlooking a waterhole. A thatched health centre includes a fully equipped gymnasium with a sauna. A resident beauty therapist is available for a massage, manicure and pedicure. This is the perfect place to relax and absorb the setting.
Cecil Rhodes, the driving force behind Britain's colonial ambitions in Africa (as well as founder of De Beers and the Rhodes Scholarship), was also drawn by the spirituality of the Matobo Hills, and visitors can marvel at the vistas from his grave at 'World's View' (or Malindidzimu 'the Place of Spirits' to the Ndebele people). Contemporary Ndebele people also consider the Matobo Hills a very sacred place, and continue to hold important religious ceremonies in the area. We met some of the Ndebele villagers who live in the vicinity of the camp, and also a visit to a local orphanage.
One of the greatest attractions in Africa and one of the most spectacular waterfalls in the world, Victoria Falls is located on the Zambezi River, the fourth largest river in Africa, which is also defining the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe. Victoria Falls is the only waterfall in the world with a length of more than a km and a height of more than hundred meters. It is also considered to be the largest fall in the world.
The noise of Victoria Falls can be heard from a distance of 40 kms, while the spray and mist from the falling water is rising to a height of over 400 meters and can be seen from a distance of 50 kms. No wonder that the local tribes used to call the waterfall Mosi-o-Tunya “The smoke that thunders”.
Scottish missionary and famous explorer of Africa David Livingstone (1813-1873) named it after Queen Victoria. Livingstone who was the first European to cross Africa from south to north discovered this awe-inspiring waterfall in 1855, while preaching Christianity in Africa. That is why Livingstone wasn’t very pleased with his discovery: it was just an obstacle on his way.
Despite the inconveniences, he was fascinated by the beauty of the falls. In 1857 Livingstone wrote that no one in England can even imagine the beauty of this scene. Religious Livingstone also wrote that most probably angels are admiring the scenery while flying nearby. He was accompanied by soldiers but only two of them took the risk of approaching the waterfalls with Livingstone. For centuries local African tribes had a sacral fear from the waterfall.
The waterfall was hardly visited by people up until 1905, when a railway to Bulawayo was constructed. Since then Victoria Falls quickly gained popularity until the end of the British colonial rule. At the end of the 1960s the number of tourists started to decrease due to the guerrilla struggle in Zimbabwe. After Zimbabwe gained independence the region has been in relative peace and Victoria Falls started to attract a new wave of tourism.
By the end of 1990 nearly 300,000 people were visiting the falls each year. Victoria Falls is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the citizens of both Zambia and Zimbabwe no longer have fear of the “the smoke that thunders”, and are successfully developing the tourism on both sides of the river.
The falls were formed in a zone of crustal faults. On the crest of the fall numerous islands divide the main flow into several branches. During floods, the water flow capacity reaches half a million liters of water per minute.
The water level varies throughout the year; it is at its peak in April, at the end of the rainy season when on average 500,000,000 litres of water flow and it is at its lowest level in October and early November.
Interestingly, during the dry season the water level in the Zambezi River drops sharply, and it becomes possible to walk through some parts of the waterfall. However, during the rest of the year Victoria Falls is a roaring machine that strikes anyone with its power.wange National Park.
Elephants have been enormously successful in Hwange and the population has increased to far above that naturally supported by such an area. However there have been consecutive years of drought in the Hwange region and this population of elephants has put a lot of strain on the resources of the park. There has been a lot of debate on how to deal with this, and culling may well be the only solution.
The Boma is an unforgettable African experience infused with Zimbabwean cuisine, The Boma - Place of Eating is a Must Do whilst in Victoria Falls. Partially open to the African skies, it offers a unique experience that bombards the senses with the tastes, sights, sounds and smells of Africa - together with the warmth and hospitality of Zimbabwe and it's people. Specialising in a superb selection of traditional Zimbabwean dishes,
The Boma offers a four-course meal combining a mouth watering choice of starters from the kitchen, soup from the campfire and a substantial barbeque buffet served on cast iron plates.They offer a wide variety of salads from the salad bar and to follow a choice of delicious desserts from the buffet area. Everyone’s tastes are catered for and whilst the adventurous are enticed with local delicacies such as Mopani worms and game stews, those wishing to enjoy beef, pork, fish and chicken or a variety of vegetarian meals are welcome to do so. The Boma is renowned for its warthog fillet.
A feast of nightly entertainment incorporates Amakwezi traditional dancers, singers, a local story teller and a Sangoma (traditional healer). After dinner, guests are invited to join in the drumming extravaganza. This is the highlight of the evening and all are invited to participate in the drumming and dancing show with their renowned drummers – Amazulu.
Hwange National ParkHwange National Park (formerly Wankie) is the largest game reserve in Zimbabwe. The park lies in the west, on the main road between Bulawayo and the widely noted Victoria Falls. It was founded around 1928 by a 22-year-old game ranger, Ted Davidson. He befriended the Manchester-born James Jones who was the stationmaster for the then Rhodesian Railways at Dete which is very near Hwange Main Camp. Jones managed incoming supplies for the park.
The Park boasts more than 100 different mammal species, including 19 large herbivores and eight large carnivores, and over 400 species of birds. With up to 30000 elephants, Hwange is one of the few great elephant sanctuaries left in Africa. All Zimbabwe's specially protected animals are to be found in Hwange and it is the only protected area where gemsbok and brown hyena occur in reasonable numbers. The population of wild dog to be found in Hwange is thought to be of one of the largest surviving groups in Africa today. Prides of lions are also common.
The park has an interesting variety of landscapes with one part running alongside the North-eastern end of the Kalahari desert. The south is sandy with extensive forests and open grassland. A feature of the area is ancient fossil dunes - ancient sand dunes held together by vegetation.There are still relatively few safari lodges in Hwange, despite being one of Africa's prime game viewing destinations. The small number of visitors, allow guests to experience a Hwange safari away from the crowds.Climate Dry Season: July to September is hot during the day but can drop to below freezing on particularly cold winter nights.
During these dry months the animals are concentrated around the man-made waterholes, without which they would die. Rainy Season: Big fluffy clouds release the summer rains and the vegetation bursts into life. The area has a relatively low average rainfall of between 22-25 inches (570-650 mm) per annum. Temperatures can reach over 100°F (38°C), while on average they range from 65-83°F (18-28°C). Birdlife is most spectacular at this time.
The Hide
It became the royal hunting grounds to the Ndebele warrior-king Mzilikazi in the early 19th Century and was set aside as a National Park in 1929. Hwange boasts a tremendous selection of wildlife with over 100 species of mammals and nearly 400 bird species recorded. The elephants of Hwange are world famous and the Park’s elephant population is one of the largest in the world. The Park has three distinctive Camps and administrative offices at Robins, Sinamatella and the largest one at Main Camp.
The Hide is located in a large private concession on the eastern boundary of Hwange National Park, The Hide is also regarded as one of the most well situated safari camps in Hwange - offering simple access to the main park and in itself being well endowed with healthy wildlife populations.
One of the unique attractions are the specially constructed hides near the waterholes - this is a wildlife photographer's paradise - often resulting in guests forgoing walks and other activities in camp!
Herds of elephant, buffalo, kudu, giraffe and wildebeest are but a few of the animals that can be seen (all are resident in the area).
Where do I start!! The Hide is one of the most spectacular places I have visited, from the staff, tents, food, animals there is nothing to fault.
Everything is included from Breakfast/Lunch/Afternoon Tea/Dinner/ Dessert/Alcohol/Tea/Coffee/Laundry and 4 game drives per day.
The guides are so knowledgable and provide full information. They certainly know their stuff from reading footprints in the sandy soil to the sounds and smells of the bush they track the animals.
The morning safari was superb especially the morning we went on a walk with Daffy who was able to point out everything from bird life, roaming animals and the trees and vegetation. It was truly great, but I would have to say my favourite drive of the day would be the 3pm (sunset drive) this is when we saw most of the animals and its great having a sundowner drink watching the sunset.
There is an opportunity to get dropped out at the treehouse out in the middle of nowhere!!! where you can stay overnight if you wish. Fellow travellers from Canada, Odd and Joyce say this was a most wonderful experience and were disappointed to have been brought back to breakfast the following morning.
The Food was fantastic, The best meals served up at a large table within the huge dining area overlooking the waterhole watching elephants and other animals drinking. You could help yourself to drinks from the self service fridge which has a huge range of drinks to offer.Breakfast was a choice of cereals and fruits and then you could also have a hot breakfast cooked on an open fire by the chef. Lunch was always 2 courses, coffee and cake for afternoon tea and Dinner was 3 courses so trust me you are always full !!!!The staff was absolutely amazing, they made us feel like Royalty, from pulling your chairs in and out at dinner to making you feel welcome and on a chilly evening providing a blanket to keep you warm. It was just excellent, everyone sits around a huge teak table providing the opportunity to share your stories and meet new people.
We enjoyed our stay at Camp Amalinda, Guests are accommodated in 8 individually thatched rooms, 5 at ground level and 5 at upper level (with steps). In addition to this the camp also features 2 honeymoon suites, both on the upper level,set into the huge granite boulders. Each room at this Zimbabwe lodging has en-suite facilities. Amalinda Camp's comfortable lounge / entertainment area is tucked away into a bushman shelter, with a panoramic view of the Matobo Hills. Delicious meals are served on a large, teak table in the open-air dining room.
Camp Amalinda's cosy library contains some of the old 'African Classics', whilst a secluded chess room, located amongst the treetops guarantees peace and tranquillity. For the wine connoisseur, a visit to the natural cave wine cellar is recommended. Sundowners can be enjoyed around a warm fire in Amalinda Camp's enclosed boma area.
Guests can enjoy fabulous bird watching - the Matobo Hills are home to the greatest variety and density of raptors anywhere in the world or participate in a guided tour of some of the ancient rock-art sites in the Matobo Hills, a reminder of the Bushman (San people), southern Africa's earliest human inhabitants, and the first of many to be drawn to the power of the Matobo Hills.
Tucked away into an ancient bushman's shelter, Camp Amalinda's charm will leave an indelible impression on every visitor. Some of the most majestic granite scenery in the world is found in the Matobo Hills. It is here that the hopes, trials and tribulations of the San Bushmen are recorded in the ancient rock art. Mammal and bird species are prolific and include the highest concentration of Leopard and Black Eagle in the world.
Nyanga
The Inn On Rupurara has been designed with a Cape Country theme, with use of wood and stone throughout, and offers visitors a unique and innovative view of the Nyanga area - one in which the natural vegetation and wildlife of the area are celebrated.
The Nyanga and Juliasdale area of the Eastern Highlands were once a hive of activity and popular weekend and holiday destination for Zimbabwean and visitors alike. At a time when big hotels where the places to stay if you were well-heeled, the Rhodes-Inyanga, Montclair and Troutbeck were the most popular. These are a bit dated now and have suffered in recent times, but are becoming more popular again, mostly with Zim families during school holidays. World's View is a spectacular vista viewed from the northern part of the Eastern Highlands mountain range, just North of Nyanga, in eastern Zimbabwe. The view point is popular with tourists. The view encompasses the plains and hills that rolls away from the range to the far west. Land as far as Rusape and even (it is claimed) Harare beyond can be seen on clear days.
The Eastern Highlands actually are just what it says on the tin...quite high and running down the eastern side of the country. This rather sweeping term actually belies a host of different environments from neat and rather clinical forestry plantations to rugged gorges stilted by rapids and waterfalls, rolling grassy foothills and assorted indigenous woodland. The highlands run from Inyanga (or Nyanga) in the north to Chimanimani and Chipinge in the south.
