27 March 2025 Journey to Japan – Thursday,
And so, the adventure begins.
Our journey starts with a taxi to Bristol Bus Station, a bargain at £12.50. The midday National Express to Heathrow is smooth, no delays, no stress—just the slow realization that we’re finally on our way. Arriving at Heathrow, we weave through the crowds and settle in at Pret A Manger for a much-needed coffee while we wait for the Japan Airlines (JAL) check-in desk to open.
I’d almost forgotten how chaotic this airport can be—people and luggage scurrying between terminals, hurried conversations, the occasional frantic dash to a gate. It’s a world in itself, a place of departures and reunions, where every traveler carries a different story.
Check-in is a breeze. JAL’s self-service kiosks and baggage drop work efficiently, and security is surprisingly swift—just 20 minutes. Then comes the unavoidable duty-free maze, an overwhelming mix of throat-catching perfume clouds, gleaming chocolate displays, and an endless tangle of tech gadgets. Everything here whispers, Buy me. You need me. But do we really? Some of these so-called “duty-free deals” seem suspiciously overpriced.
The Departure Lounge is alive with energy—a melting pot of nationalities, colorful fashion, and the constant hum of conversation in multiple languages. Some travelers are off on holidays, others on business, and many heading home to loved ones. Everyone is waiting, moving, calling, sipping coffee, dragging wheelie bags, checking screens. “Hygiene Operators” (formerly known as cleaners) move swiftly, keeping everything spotless, while information staff in bright purple uniforms guide passengers with practiced patience.
And so, we wait. And wait.
Then—a delay. One hour.
Eventually, boarding is called, and we step onto the JAL Airbus A350-1000—a sleek new addition to their fleet. Economy class feels surprisingly spacious, with generous legroom and comfortable seats. A large screen in front of us offers an impressive selection of films and music, a welcome distraction for the long-haul journey ahead.
The JAL flight attendants are the epitome of politeness and efficiency, serving two hot meals and plenty of drinks throughout the flight. We doze when we can, adjusting to the reality of crossing time zones at 35,000 feet.
Arrival in Tokyo – Friday, 28 March 2025
Touchdown at Tokyo Haneda Airport. Even after such a long journey, there’s something invigorating about stepping into a new country, the air thick with possibility. Immigration and customs are seamless, a testament to Japan’s famed efficiency.
Waiting for us in the arrivals hall is our tour guide, Phil Airey, a reassuring presence after so many hours in transit. He leads us to our coach for the 45-minute drive to our hotel, the Keio Plaza in Shinjuku.
By the time we arrive, exhaustion has fully set in. The city’s neon glow and endless energy are enticing, but for now, all we need is a long, deep sleep.
Japan, an island nation in East Asia, is known for its unique blend of ancient traditions and modern innovation, characterized by stunning natural beauty, vibrant culture, and a rich history.
Tomorrow, Tokyo awaits.
29 March 2025 - Touchdown in Tokyo: First Impressions of Japan’s Vibrant Capital
After a long flight, we finally touch down at Tokyo Haneda Airport—a gateway into the heart of Japan. As expected, everything runs like clockwork. From immigration to customs, the efficiency is impressive, a first taste of the meticulous order that Japan is known for. The airport hums with quiet energy, travelers flowing smoothly from one checkpoint to the next.
Waiting for us in the arrivals hall is our tour guide, Phil Airey, a friendly and knowledgeable presence who quickly ushers us toward our waiting coach. The journey ahead: a 45-minute drive into the neon-lit heart of Tokyo. Even through weary eyes, the excitement builds as we cruise past the dazzling skyline, catching glimpses of towering skyscrapers, bustling streets, and the first hints of cherry blossoms lining the roadsides.
Our destination is the Keio Plaza Hotel in Shinjuku, a perfect base in one of Tokyo’s most dynamic districts. As we pull up outside, the city’s energy is palpable—bright lights, sleek buildings, and the organized chaos of a metropolis that never truly sleeps. But for now, we do.
Exhausted yet exhilarated, we check in, eager for a restful night before diving into the adventures that await. Tokyo, we’re ready for you.
30 March 2025 - A Journey Through Japan’s History – Tokyo National Museum
Our first stop was the Tokyo National Museum, Japan’s oldest and largest museum, home to an astonishing collection of over 100,000 artifacts. With its sleek, minimalist design by Taniguchi Yoshio, the museum blends tradition with modernity, much like Tokyo itself.
Inside, we marveled at beautifully preserved samurai swords and armor, delicate ceramics, and intricate Japanese art. A highlight was the opportunity to create our own block-printed postcards—a hands-on way to bring home a unique souvenir. Before leaving, we wandered through the serene Japanese-style garden, a tranquil spot hidden behind the museum’s Honkan building.
Sky-High Views at Tokyo Tower
Next, we headed to Tokyo Tower, an iconic landmark standing 333 meters tall—three meters higher than its inspiration, the Eiffel Tower. Once Japan’s tallest structure, it remains a powerful symbol of the country’s post-war recovery.
We took the elevator up to the observation deck at 150 meters, where we were rewarded with breathtaking panoramic views of the city. The “lookdown windows” were a particular thrill—watching kids jump on them, testing their courage against the dizzying drop below.
A Hidden European Oasis – Lunch at Brick Square
For lunch, we found a quiet retreat in Brick Square, near Marunouchi Station. With its European-style architecture, charming shops, and a peaceful garden, it felt like a little slice of another world. We picked up freshly baked pastries from a delightful bakery and enjoyed them in the sunshine—a simple yet perfect meal.
Cherry Blossoms in Full Bloom – Shinjuku Gyoen
The highlight of the day was undoubtedly our visit to Shinjuku Gyoen Park, one of Tokyo’s most beloved green spaces. Strolling through its vast lawns and traditional Japanese gardens, we found ourselves surrounded by magnificent cherry blossoms, their soft pink petals drifting gently in the breeze.
This park is home to over a dozen varieties of cherry trees, meaning the blooms last longer here than in other parts of the city. Today, thousands of people had gathered to celebrate hanami, the cherished tradition of flower viewing. We wandered through the beautifully landscaped Kyu Goryotei Pavilion, reflecting on how lucky we were to witness Tokyo at its most picturesque.
A Well-Earned Rest
After walking over eight miles, we returned to our hotel, exhausted but content. Tonight, we’ll rest up—tomorrow, we leave behind the city’s neon glow for the peace of the mountains. Tokyo has dazzled us, but adventure calls once more.
Next stop: the mountains!
31 March 2025 - From Cityscape to Mountains
This morning we leave Tokyo the teaming people and heavy traffic behind travelling through the skyscrapers then low build into a more rural area. It feels good to be getting into the countryside as we head to Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park, famous for its hot springs and views of what is easily Japan’s most iconic image, Mount Fuji. Our first stop is Lake Ashi, a crater lake formed over 200,000 years ago. The weather has turned to snow and it feels really cold as we board our boat for a short cruise on this beautiful lake before taking a cable car into the Owakudani Valley. The result of a volcanic eruption over 3,000 years ago, the area is still active with many sulphur vents and bubbling hot springs.
Our next stop is the small, but delightful, Kubota Icchiku Art Museum. Kubota revived the lost art of Tsujigahana silk dyeing and the museum exhibits several of the artist’s stunning kimono creations, which depict themes of nature, the cosmos and the seasons. This a particular highlight not only the spectacular kimonos but the beautifully created garden and the wonderful timbered building housing his creations.
We continue our journey through picturesque landscapes to the area known as Fuji Five Lakes, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Our home for the next two nights is the Fuji Marriott Hotel Lake Yamanaka. After settling into our accommodation, there is free time to relax before we dine together in the hotel’s restaurant.
1 April 2025 - A Snowy Day in the Shadow of Fuji-san
We awoke this morning to a scene of pure magic—snow-laden trees and a fresh 4 to 5 inches of snowfall blanketing the landscape. The air was crisp, the world hushed, and yet, despite our hopes, the mighty Fuji-san remained hidden behind a thick veil of cloud. No postcard-perfect view of its iconic slopes today, but our adventure was just beginning.
A Hands-on Encounter with Tradition
Our first stop was the charming Oishi Tsumugi, where we immersed ourselves—quite literally—into the art of hand-dyeing. The process is deeply rooted in Japanese tradition, using madder root (Mutsuba Akane) to produce its signature rich red hues. Watching the dyeing unfold was like witnessing alchemy. The shibori (tie-dye) techniques, the slow boiling of the roots, and the careful mordanting of the fabric felt like a ritual passed down through generations. As we unfolded our handkerchiefs, each with its own unique pattern, there was a quiet satisfaction in knowing we had created something that carried the spirit of Japan.
A Warrior’s Meal: Hōtō Noodles
By midday, the cold had sharpened our appetites, and nothing could have been more comforting than a steaming pot of Hōtō noodles—the hearty, rustic dish of Yamanashi Prefecture. Said to have sustained the legendary warlord Takeda Shingen and his samurai before battle, this miso-based hot pot is packed with thick wheat noodles, pumpkin, and seasonal vegetables. Unlike udon, the noodles in hōtō are cut and cooked more like dumplings, making the dish deeply satisfying. One spoonful and we understood why this has remained a staple for centuries.
Fuji-san World Heritage Centre: A Tribute to the Sacred Mountain
With the mountain itself still obscured, we turned to the Fuji-san World Heritage Centre to explore its history, seismology, and cultural significance. The building itself is a marvel—an inverted cone whose reflection in the pond outside mimics the silhouette of Fuji. Inside, we ascended a winding 200-meter ramp, as if on a symbolic pilgrimage.
A highlight was a five-minute time-lapse film showcasing the six-hour trek to Fuji’s summit—a mesmerizing journey through shifting landscapes, changing weather, and the silent determination of climbers. The centre also displayed breathtaking images from a photography competition, each frame capturing Fuji in its many moods—bathed in sunrise gold, wreathed in mist, or stark against a winter sky.
A Snowy Stroll Along Lake Kawaguchi
Between stops, we found time for a quiet walk along the shores of Lake Kawaguchi. Today, the landscape was transformed—a winter wonderland of snow-covered trees and frozen reflections. The lake was stunning in its stillness, but Fuji-san remained elusive. Even so, there was a quiet beauty in the moment, a reminder that nature has its own rhythm, its own mysteries.
A Soothing End to the Day
After a full day of exploration, we returned to our hotel, where the onsen awaited. There’s something deeply restorative about soaking in Japan’s natural hot springs—the warm, mineral-rich waters easing away the day’s fatigue, the steam rising into the night air.
Dinner was a relaxed affair, a chance to reflect on the day’s experiences. No view of Fuji-san today, but we found its spirit everywhere—in the food, the traditions, and the stories shared. Tomorrow is another day, and perhaps, if we are lucky, the clouds will part, and we will finally glimpse the sacred peak in all its glory.
2 April 2025 - From Fuji to the Japanese Alps: A Journey Through History, Flavour, and Scenic Splendour - 2 April 2025
The crisp mountain air of Fuji lingers as we begin our journey westward, leaving behind the iconic peak and descending into the lush, forested countryside. The temperature has risen, and spring feels ever more present as we weave through landscapes that shift from volcanic slopes to rolling green valleys.
A Samurai’s Stronghold: Matsumoto Castle
Our first stop is the majestic Matsumoto Castle (松本城, Matsumotojō), Japan’s oldest surviving castle keep and a masterpiece of samurai-era architecture. Unlike most fortresses built atop mountains, Matsumoto Castle stands proudly on the plains, its black-walled exterior earning it the nickname Karasu-jō—the Crow Castle.
The main keep, along with its secondary donjon and turret, dates back to 1592, a time when Japan was still rife with conflict.
The Secret of Umami: A Visit to a Miso Brewery
Leaving the castle, we step into another world of tradition—one that is less about warriors and battles, and more about patience and craftsmanship. Nestled among Matsumoto’s old wooden buildings, a historic miso brewery has been producing this Japanese staple since 1868.
Here, the scent of fermenting soybeans fills the air as we walk past massive cedar barrels, where miso is aged for up to three years. Watching the process unfold—soybeans mixed with koji mold and salt, left to develop their rich umami depth over time—we begin to appreciate the artistry behind something so simple yet essential to Japanese cuisine. The highlight? A tasting session where we sample miso. It’s a reminder that food, like history, is a reflection of time itself.
Into the Heart of the Japanese Alps: Takayama
With our palates awakened and our spirits lifted, we continue our journey into the mountains. The road to Takayama is breathtaking—winding through deep valleys, over pristine rivers, and past snow-dusted peaks that seem to stretch into infinity.
Takayama, often called the “Little Kyoto of the Alps,” welcomes us with its impeccably preserved Edo-period streets, atmospheric wooden merchant houses, and a sense of timelessness that few places can match. Our hotel, is the Takayama Green for the next two days, we’ll explore this alpine gem, from its vibrant morning markets to its hidden onsen retreats, and perhaps even venture deeper into the Hida region, where rural Japan remains untouched.
3 April 2025 - Takayama
Takayama and the surrounding area boast traditional architecture, opulent festivals and a range of the best mountains and onsen in Japan.
Widely considered Gifu's crown jewel, Takayama is a fantastic destination surrounded by the scenic alpine countryside of the Japan Alps
The Takayama Green Hotel is very opulent from the outside and main public space but the rooms are small and dated. Trying to get a coffee at 5pm is impossible in the coffee lounge and try to order dinner in the buffet when they want you to pay the bill upfront!
Takayama is best explored on foot and we begin our day with a visit to the morning market. A glorious walk across the Kajbashi Bridge and the n alongside the river with large carp swimming in and out of the rocks.
There are various market stalls selling foodstuffs , souvenirs and general Goods
Afterwards, we make our way to the Takayama-Jinya, which served as government headquarters under the Tokugawa shogunate of 1692 to 1871. Because of its valuable timber resources, the Hida Region around Takayama was put under direct control of the Tokugawa Shogunatein 1692. The Takayama Jinya (高山陣屋) served as the local government office headed by the officials dispatched from Edo (present day Tokyo).
The building complex was in official use until 1969 and is now open to the public as a museum. It includes various nicely maintained tatami rooms that once served as offices, conference rooms, guest rooms and residential space. There is also an interesting interrogation room.
Beside the main building stands a large storehouse built in the 1600s. Known as the biggest traditional rice storehouse in Japan, it now functions as a museum, showcasing belongings and official documents of past local leaders, old maps of the Hida Region and historic town plans.
We end our morning in the heart of Takayama’s picturesque old town, lined with traditional houses Because of its valuable timber resources, the Hida Region around Takayama was put under direct control of the Tokugawa Shogunatein 1692. The Takayama Jinya (高山陣屋) served as the local government office headed by the officials dispatched from Edo (present day Tokyo).
The building complex was in official use until 1969 and is now open to the public as a museum. It includes various nicely maintained tatami rooms that once served as offices, conference rooms, guest rooms and residential space. There is also an interesting interrogation room.
Beside the main building stands a large storehouse built in the 1600s. Known as the biggest traditional rice storehouse in Japan, it now functions as a museum, showcasing belongings and official documents of past local leaders, old maps of the Hida Region and historic lmuseums, such as the Festival Floats Exhibition Hall which is amazing
The Takayama Festival Floats Exhibition Hall, located on the grounds of Sakurayama Hachiman Shrine, is home to the 11 floats (designated as Important Tangible Cultural Assets by the Japanese government) that are put on parade for the Takayama Autumn Festival (October 9, 10) and are rotated out three times a year.
The splendid yatai* floats of Takayama are only on show during the Takayama Festival, which is held twice yearly, in spring and autumn, but they are one of Japan’s must-sees. Their colorful and intricate decorations embody skills handed down over generations, and it’s easy to see why the Takayama Festival is considered one of the three finest in Japan. The beauty of the yatai is set off by the backdrop of the city’s historic streets, lined with buildings many hundreds of years old. If you appreciate beauty, we recommend a visit to Takayama. * Highly decorated hand-pulled floats used in festivals. In other parts of Japan they are often known as dashi.
4 April 2025- From Praying Hands to Samurai Swords: A Journey Through Shirakawa-go and Kanazawa
We began our day winding through the breathtaking heart of the Japanese Alps, a landscape stitched together by towering peaks, dense forests, and engineering marvels. One tunnel in particular—Japan’s third longest—cut deep into the mountains and took nearly a decade to complete. Emerging on the other side felt like stepping into another world: the hidden mountain village of Shirakawa-go, a UNESCO World Heritage Site where time appears to have gently slowed.
Shirakawa-go: Where the Mountains Whisper Stories of the Past
Nestled at the headwaters of the Shō River in northern Gifu, Shirakawa-go and its neighbouring hamlets were largely isolated until the 1960s. Today, they are celebrated for their striking Gassho-Zukuri farmhouses, whose steep, thatched roofs resemble hands folded in prayer. Designed to shed heavy snow, these structures are a testament to both ingenuity and harmony with nature.
From the village’s hillside observatory, we gazed out over a postcard-perfect scene: the warm brown rooftops of the Gassho houses scattered like puzzle pieces across the valley floor, framed by snow-laden mountains that stood still in the morning mist.
Our visit to the Kanda House—an exquisite example of Gassho-Zukuri architecture—offered a glimpse into life during the Edo period. Painstakingly built over ten years by a shrine carpenter, the house showcases a construction style that’s both beautiful and brilliantly practical. These homes weren’t just for living—they supported industries like silkworm farming and even the production of nitric acid, once used in gunpowder. Their design features clever touches for fire safety, earthquake resilience, and withstanding brutal winters. It’s architecture born of wisdom, shaped by necessity.
Kanazawa: From Mountain Villages to Samurai Legacy
Leaving the mountains behind, we journeyed on to Kanazawa, a coastal city steeped in art, culture, and samurai heritage. Our first stop: the bustling Omicho Market, alive with shouts from seafood vendors, the scent of grilled fish in the air, and stalls bursting with vibrant vegetables, glistening crab, squid, octopus, and every imaginable kind of seafood. In operation since 1721, this market is the culinary soul of Kanazawa—a chaotic, colourful delight for all senses.
In the afternoon, we stepped into another world entirely at the Nomura Samurai House in the historic Nagamachi district. Tucked at the base of Kanazawa Castle, Nagamachi still retains the quiet dignity of its past, with narrow stone lanes, flowing water canals, and earthen walls once patrolled by proud warriors.
The Nomura family home, now carefully restored, offered a serene window into the life of a high-ranking samurai clan. Wandering through rooms where Edo-period armor and scrolls sit beside a tranquil tea ceremony space, we felt the weight of centuries. The jewel of the house is its enchanting garden, where stepping stones lead across mossy ground, a koi pond ripples beneath a maple tree, and every detail whispers calm.
To conclude our journey, we arrived at the Kanazawa Tokyu Hotel, our home for the next two nights. Centrally located, it’s the perfect base from which to explore more of this elegant city—where tradition and refinement echo in every corner.
5 April 2025 – Kanazawa
Blossoms, Gold, and a Glimpse into the Past
We started our day in Kanazawa with a tranquil breakfast before stepping into what felt like a living painting — Kenroku-en Garden, one of Japan’s most celebrated gardens. The name means “garden of six attributes” — spaciousness, seclusion, antiquity, human ingenuity, water features, and scenic beauty — and walking through its elegant paths, we understood why it’s considered one of the top three gardens in the country.
At the heart of Kenroku-en lies the serene Kasumigaike Pond, with Horai Island nestled at its center. In Japanese mythology, this island symbolizes longevity and eternal prosperity, believed to be the home of an ageless hermit. The symbolism felt especially poignant surrounded by blooming cherry blossoms, a reminder of life’s fleeting beauty. The garden was alive with people — families, couples, photographers — all soaking up the sunshine and sakura. A nearby market bustled with stalls selling delicate pottery, handmade jewelry, and charming trinkets, adding a lovely local touch to the scene.
From timeless nature to delicate craft, our next stop brought us face-to-face with another Kanazawa specialty: gold leaf. The city is renowned for its gold leaf production — and not just for display. After learning about the painstaking process, we rolled up our sleeves to create our own gold-leaf adorned chopsticks. It’s trickier than it looks, but deeply satisfying.
In the afternoon, we wandered through the atmospheric Higashi Chaya district. With its beautifully preserved geisha houses, cobbled lanes, and subtle elegance, it felt like stepping into the Edo period. Some houses are now teahouses or restaurants, while others remain open to visitors, offering a peek into a quieter, more refined world.
Our journey then took us uphill to Gyokuseninmaru Garden, a hidden gem within the Kanazawa Castle grounds. This serene space was once the private retreat of a feudal lord’s wife, and its tiered design, cascading waterfall, and sweeping views made for a peaceful pause. The view from the shaded terrace was perfect — a chance to sit, breathe, and take in the carefully composed landscape.
Refreshed, we climbed further to Kanazawa Castle itself. Entry is free for those over 65, which we happily took advantage of. The castle has a storied past, having been built in 1583 by the powerful Maeda clan and rebuilt several times due to fires and disasters. It has since been meticulously restored using traditional methods — the result is both beautiful and impressive in scale. The restored wooden turrets and long warehouses, complete with intricate rooflines and wooden carvings called gegyo, are a testament to the skill and artistry of Japanese craftsmen.
Inside, we explored reconstructed interiors, examined architectural models, and stood at narrow windows imagining life as a sentry scanning the grounds for intruders. The variety of stone walls surrounding the castle, each built in a different style and era, gave the grounds a unique character — no wonder the castle park is sometimes called a “stone wall museum.”
As the sun dipped below the horizon, we returned to Kenroku-en Garden, now softly illuminated for the cherry blossom night viewing. The delicate pink petals, bathed in warm light, danced gently in the evening breeze. It was magical — serene, romantic, and unforgettable. The perfect way to end a day steeped in beauty, craftsmanship, and history.
Kanazawa has a way of blending the past and present, nature and artistry, peace and vitality — and today, we got to experience it all.
6 April 2025 – Bullet Train to Kyoto and a Birthday to Remember
This morning began with the kind of excitement you hope for on your birthday — a high-speed journey across Japan aboard the famous bullet train. Our destination: Kyoto, the nation’s cultural heart and former imperial capital. But not before a small misadventure…
We arrived bright and early at Kanazawa Station, luggage in tow, excitement building. The station itself was spotless, efficient, and beautifully modern. We boarded the Kinshansen, Japan’s sleek and silent marvel of engineering, and settled in — only to discover, with a jolt, that we were on the wrong train. A brief moment of panic turned into patient resignation as we rode to the next stop, hopped off, and doubled back to Kanazawa. Round two was more successful: the right train to Tsuruga, and then a seamless transfer to the Express for Kyoto. Disconcerting at first, but there’s a certain calm in knowing every train here runs like clockwork — down to the second.
As we glided southward through the Japanese countryside, I watched the landscape shift like a painting in motion — rice paddies glinting in the sun, small villages nestled between forested hills, and fields of green stretching far into the horizon. The stations we passed were abuzz with energy — commuters, schoolchildren, tourists — all moving with purpose. The rail staff, dressed in immaculate uniforms reminiscent of airline pilots, added a quiet elegance to the journey.
Arriving in Kyoto felt like arriving in another time. With its temples, shrines, and centuries-old traditions, this city has a rhythm all its own. We headed straight to Arashiyama to explore the enchanting Bamboo Grove — a living cathedral of green. We entered from the peaceful side gate of Tenryu-ji Temple, and as we stepped onto the shaded path, it felt as if we’d wandered into a dream. The towering stalks swayed gently in the breeze, filtering the sunlight in soft dapples. It’s a short walk, but utterly immersive — a moment of stillness that lingers long after you leave.
Tonight, we were treated to one of the true cultural treasures of Kyoto — a traditional kaiseki dinner with a maiko, an apprentice geisha.
The maiko arrived with grace, her white-painted face glowing softly under the lantern light, red lips curved into a serene smile. Her elaborately styled hair and ornate kimono were breathtaking. Over the course of the evening, she performed elegant dances, played traditional music, and engaged us in games and conversation. It was fascinating to learn about her world — one built on discipline, artistry, and centuries of tradition. Kyoto’s geiko culture remains one of Japan’s most refined, and tonight offered a rare and privileged window into that world.
Geiko and maiko are not simply performers — they are artisans of presence, trained to entertain with charm, wit, and grace. In Kyoto, their lives unfold in historic districts like Gion and Kamishichiken, where the ochaya (teahouses) maintain customs untouched by time. We learned that entry to these ochaya is so exclusive that you need an introduction from an existing client — a system built entirely on trust.
It was, without question, a magical way to celebrate turning 76 — a birthday filled with beauty, mystery, and moments of quiet joy. From the bullet train mishap to the bamboo forest and the timeless grace of the geiko world, today was a journey in every sense of the word.
7 April 2025 – Kyoto
We begin our day in Kyoto bathed in morning light and cultural splendour, stepping into the serenity of Kinkaku-ji, the legendary Golden Pavilion. Even early in the day, the temple is alive with visitors from across the globe, all drawn—as we are—to its luminous beauty. The top two floors shimmer with gold leaf, glowing against a backdrop of whispering pines and reflected perfectly in the still waters of the pond below.
Originally the shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu’s retirement villa, Kinkaku-ji became a Zen temple after his death in 1408. Despite being ravaged by fire several times—including a tragic arson in 1950—the current structure rebuilt in 1955 still captures the majesty and tranquillity of its past. We wander slowly, absorbing its history and grandeur, marvelling at how this single building outlasted a once-sprawling estate.
Our next destination is the enigmatic Ryoan-ji Temple, home to Japan’s most iconic Zen rock garden. The moment we step into the viewing area, a hush seems to fall. Fifteen weathered stones lie adrift in a sea of meticulously raked white gravel, each placement deliberate, yet utterly mysterious. No matter where you stand, one stone always remains hidden—an enduring metaphor, perhaps, for life itself.
We sit in quiet contemplation, letting the garden’s wordless message sink in. After a while, we stretch our legs through the surrounding grounds—past groves of mossy trees and beside the tranquil Kyoyo-chi Pond. The stillness of the place lingers with us as we move on.
Next, it’s time for one of Japan’s most spectacular springtime traditions—hanami, or cherry blossom viewing. We head to Maruyama Park, Kyoto’s oldest, where nearly 600 cherry trees are in full bloom. The iconic Gion weeping cherry tree stands like a graceful sentinel, its blossoms glowing under the soft light of paper lanterns. The park buzzes with life—locals and tourists alike, many dressed in elegant kimonos and traditional hakama, pausing for photos beneath the falling petals. Several kindly allow me to capture their images, and their beauty, framed by blossoms, feels like something out of a painting.
As twilight deepens, we wander into the atmospheric streets of Gion, Kyoto’s famed geisha district, where old wooden teahouses cast warm glows onto the cobbled lanes. Here, we have the rare privilege of participating in a traditional Japanese tea ceremony at Bikouen, a historic teahouse that has been purveying Kyoto’s finest Uji matcha since 1872.
The ceremony is a quiet revelation. Every gesture—from the folding of the cloth to the turning of the tea bowl—is steeped in meaning. There is beauty in the simplicity, in the silence, in the shared moment. Rooted in Zen philosophy, this ritual is not just about tea; it’s about presence, grace, and gratitude. The legacy of Sen no Rikyu, who shaped the tea ceremony in the 16th century, lingers in every humble utensil and every careful movement.
We close the day with a quiet dinner near our hotel, reflecting on the poetry and peace of the day. Kyoto, with its seamless blend of past and present, has gently worked its way into our hearts.
Kyoto Station After Dark: A Cyberpunk Surprise in the City of Temples
This evening, we swapped temple bells for the hum of escalators and the shimmer of neon, trading Kyoto’s famous wooden shrines for something altogether more futuristic: Kyoto Station. Yes, a train station—but not just any train station. This is a glass-and-steel monolith, a jaw-dropping fusion of functionality and postmodern design that feels more like a sci-fi movie set than a transport hub.
In Japan, two architectural worlds run parallel: the serene minimalism of wooden beams, tatami mats, and sliding doors, and the hyper-modern sprawl of steel, concrete, and light. Kyoto is usually the poster child for the former, but tonight we explored its lesser-known alter ego—a shimmering beacon of contemporary Japan.
Kyoto Station is the country’s second-largest transport terminal, and it’s breathtaking in both scale and ambition. One of the station’s best-kept secrets lies above the chaos of ticket barriers and platform announcements. Tucked away on the 11th floor, through an unassuming door, is the Skyway—a hidden walkway suspended high above the station. Spanning its full length, it provides sweeping north-facing views across Kyoto, including the iconic Kyoto Tower. The Skyway’s clear glass panels outshine even the higher-up Sky Garden, which, despite its name and 15th-floor perch, offers tinted windows that dull the view. Here on the Skyway, the city feels close enough to touch.
Looking down from this elevated vantage point, the ticket hall transforms into a vast canyon of movement and light. Escalators glide endlessly up and down, and the Grand Staircase, decked out in LEDs, pulses with an ever-changing spectrum of colours—a magnet for Instagrammers and people-watchers alike. Gazing upward, the station’s exposed steel girders form an intricate web nicknamed The Matrix. It’s an apt title, especially considering the sci-fi film of the same name drew inspiration from William Gibson’s Sprawl trilogy—a cyberpunk world not unlike the one unfolding around us.
Night is when Kyoto Station truly comes alive. The steel beams glow under shifting lights, the air buzzes with activity, and outside, the plaza throbs with neon. Taxis stream by, headlights sweeping over hurried commuters and curious tourists, while street sounds echo off the surrounding glass walls. It’s organised chaos—quintessentially Japanese.
And just when we thought the night couldn’t get more surreal, we found the Aqua Fantasy. Tucked beside the station, this musical fountain puts on a dazzling show at regular intervals. Jets of water leap and twirl in perfect harmony with music and lights, painting patterns in the air. It’s whimsical, theatrical, and surprisingly moving—a brief but beautiful performance that captures Kyoto’s ability to blend the ancient with the ultramodern in one unforgettable experience.
Kyoto Station might not make it onto every tourist itinerary, but it absolutely should. It’s an architectural marvel, a visual spectacle, and above all, a testament to Japan’s unique ability to fuse tradition with the future.
8 April 2025 - Kyoto
This morning, after a leisurely breakfast, we left the city behind and made our way to one of Kyoto’s most iconic sites – the Fushimi Inari Shrine. Even before we reached the entrance, we were swept along by the steady flow of tourists, all weaving across busy railway lines like pilgrims drawn to something extraordinary.
Fushimi Inari is no ordinary shrine. It’s an ancient and deeply significant Shinto site, famous for its spellbinding tunnels of over 10,000 vermilion torii gates. Each gate, closely spaced and glowing red in the morning light, has been donated—many by individuals, families, or businesses seeking blessings of prosperity and good fortune. The effect is hypnotic: walking through them feels like stepping into another world, where dappled sunlight filters through the columns and time seems to slow.
The shrine is dedicated to Inari, the Shinto god of rice and agriculture, and fox statues—his messengers—are scattered across the grounds, lending an air of mysticism. Towering above us was Mount Inari, 233 meters of sacred forest into which the torii trails vanish. The origins of this place stretch back before Kyoto was even the capital—timeless, spiritual, and deeply rooted in Japanese culture.
At the entrance stands the impressive Romon Gate, donated in 1589 by the powerful warlord Toyotomi Hideyoshi. Just beyond is the main hall, where visitors pause to make offerings, bow their heads, and ring bells in prayer. Even in the crush of people, there’s a quiet reverence here.
Our morning ended with a change of pace at the nearby Kizakura Sake Brewery. Nestled in the Fushimi district, this area is famed for its underground spring water—Fushimizu—ideal for sake brewing. The name “Fushimi” itself even means “hidden water.” We learned about the careful craftsmanship behind sake production, from steaming rice to fermentation, and fellow travellers sampled a few varieties—each with its own subtle character.
Kizakura also brews craft beer under the name Kyoto Beer, blending sake-making techniques with creative ingredients like Yuzu citrus, green tea, and black beans. It’s a perfect example of tradition meeting innovation.
In the afternoon, we strolled from our hotel to one of Kyoto’s grandest landmarks—Nijo-jo Castle. Built by Tokugawa Ieyasu, the founder of the Tokugawa shogunate, the castle was designed to project power—and it does. Surrounded by a wide moat, formidable stone walls, and imposing gates, it’s as much a fortress as a palace.
Inside, however, the details tell another story. The main palace, with its stunning painted screens and intricate woodwork, reveals a love of beauty and formality. These rooms once hosted daimyo—feudal lords—who came to seek audience with the shoguns. The rich gold and vibrant colors of the artwork, created by the Kano school, were meant to impress, and still do.
While exploring the grounds, we were lucky to witness a Buddhist ceremony inside the Hall of Amidado—a moment of calm and reflection. I found myself pondering the rituals and faith that underpin so much of Japanese life. Whether one believes or not, there’s something both beautiful and mysterious about people seeking connection with something greater.
Later, in the gardens, we were approached by four elderly gentlemen from Tokyo who asked me to take their photo. They were delightful—charming, polite, and keen to chat. One even told us he had worked in London during the 1990s and had met Margaret Thatcher, which felt wonderfully surreal under the cherry blossoms of Kyoto.
As we walked across the palace corridors, stepping lightly over the famous “nightingale floors”—ingenious boards that chirp underfoot to warn of intruders. Even centuries later, their quiet song still echoes a sense of watchfulness, history, and grace.
9 April 2025 - Bullet Train to Hiroshima
After a leisurely breakfast, we transfer to Kyoto Station for another ride on Japan’s iconic Bullet Train. Hopefully this time getting the right train!
Running at speeds of up to 200 miles per hour, the train smoothly whisks us across the country to our next port of call, Hiroshima. Hiroshima is perhaps best known for being the place where an atomic bomb was dropped during the Second World War.
The journey from Kyoto to Hiroshima by bullet train, or Shinkansen, is a scenic ride through the Kansai and Chugoku regions of Japan. The trip takes about 1 hour and 40 minutes, and the train stops at major cities like Kobe and Okayama.
Arriving in Hiroshima we make our way to the Peace Park and its moving museum, as well as the Atomic Bomb Dome.
The atomic bombing of Hiroshima, remains a deeply controversial event, with arguments both for and against its necessity and morality, and the long-term effects continue to be felt by survivors and the world.
Proponents argue that the bombings forced Japan's surrender, preventing a potentially devastating invasion of the Japanese mainland and saving countless lives on both sides.
Critics argue that the bombings resulted in the deaths of hundreds of thousands of civilians, including women and children, and that the use of such a weapon was inherently immoral.
The bombings resulted in long-term health problems for survivors, including cancer and other radiation-related illnesses.
The bombings are seen by many as having set a dangerous precedent for the use of nuclear weapons, which could lead to a global catastrophe.
In the aftermath of the bombings, Hiroshima became a symbol of the horrors of nuclear war and a rallying point for the peace movement. The city continues to be a place of remembrance and reflection, with the Hiroshima Peace Memorial and the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum serving as reminders of the devastation caused by the atomic bomb.
Historical Background of Hiroshima
On August 6, 1945, the Enola Gay dropped the first of two atomic bombs over Japan. The atomic bomb exploded 600 meters in the air over Hiroshima. The blast and the heat wave leveled the city almost instantly, leaving only several well constructed buildings somewhat intact.
At the hypocenter, people were killed instantly. Further away from the hypocenter there were “survivors,” but many of these people died within a few days to a few weeks, victims of radiation sickness. Those people who lived on the outskirts of Hiroshima survived the bombing but many of them were afflicted with cancer and other medical problems in later years.
After the bombing, buildings in Hiroshima were dismantled as part of the rebuilding process. The Atomic Bomb Dome, known before the bombing of Hiroshima as the Hiroshima Prefectural Industrial Promotion hall, was intact enough that it was one of the more difficult buildings to dismantle, so it was saved to the end. As photos and videos of the Hiroshima destruction were aired, the Atomic Bomb Dome became a symbol of the bombing of Hiroshima and it was left in place.
The museum Chronicles the horror and hope of one of the most cataclysmic events of modern times
Arguably the most significant event in modern history, the atomic bombing of Hiroshima
and Nagasaki
were devastating, though postwar Japan was able to recover and become the nation we know today. We walk through the displays of artifacts that remain from the atomic bombing, in order to convey the harsh reality of the time, and the dangers of nuclear weapons. The exhibitions are quite harrowing Yet the museum offers a balanced and extraordinarily human outlook on the devastation wrought on Hiroshima and why the city was selected as a target.
We hear from a survivor who was aged just 6 years at the time. When she married later in life her husband although originally seemingly healthy died at the age of 50 havinfg suffered the effects of radiation. She wanted her story to be told so that nuclear armament is not used in the future,
Having walked around this museum and memorials one wonders at the state of the world today with so many countries in possession of this lethal weaponry and the wars that are taking place today.
Viewing the artifacts and pictures of what took place 80 years ago and the effects, pain, suffering and longer term effects makes one reflect on nuclear disarmament
10 April 2025 – Miyajima Island: Mist, Magic, and Sacred Spaces
This morning’s adventure took us across the waters to the enchanting island of Miyajima, a name that resonates with beauty, spirituality, and timeless charm. As we boarded the ferry, the scene was already something out of a painting—mist-shrouded mountains, golden sunlight breaking through like divine spotlight, and the famous floating torii gate of Itsukushima Shrine slowly coming into view, rising proudly from the sea like a guardian of centuries past.
The short ferry ride gave us plenty of time to soak it all in. The anticipation built as the island approached, the torii growing ever larger, commanding attention against the tranquil backdrop of the Seto Inland Sea. Despite the buzz of fellow tourists, there was a hush to the moment—an unspoken reverence for this sacred place.
Once ashore, we strolled along the idyllic seafront, the scent of saltwater mingling with the sweetness of sakura blossoms in the air. Our first destination: the Itsukushima Shinto Shrine, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of Japan’s most iconic sacred spots.
Set partly over the water, the shrine’s red-lacquered walkways and buildings stand in perfect harmony with their natural surroundings. The shrine itself dates back to the 12th century, though the island has been a holy place of Shintoism for far longer—possibly since the 6th century. The way the buildings blend into the landscape reflects the Japanese concept of scenic beauty, where nature and human artistry coexist in quiet reverence. Every angle offers a postcard view—sea and sky, mountain and shrine, all in perfect balance.
After exploring the shrine’s quiet corners and soaking up its sacred atmosphere, we continued inland to the equally mesmerizing Daisho-in Temple, nestled at the foot of Mount Misen.
This Shingon Buddhist temple, founded in 806 AD by the sect’s founder Kobo Daishi, felt both ancient and alive. Statues peered out from mossy corners, incense curled through the air, and the temple complex stretched out across the hillside like a spiritual maze.
One of the most captivating features was the Dai-hannyakyo Sutra—a row of spinning metal wheels inscribed with Buddhist scripture. As we walked, we turned each one, a symbolic act believed to be the same as reading the sutras themselves.
Further up the stone steps, we were greeted by the watchful gaze of the Rakan statues, representing the 500 disciples of Buddha, each one carved with its own unique expression—some serene, others playful or wise. Then came the underground tunnel, dimly lit and lined with sacred icons. Walking through felt like stepping into another world—a quiet, intimate journey of faith.
With the temples behind us, we had time to slow down and simply enjoy the charm of Miyajima’s bustling streets. Lanterns swayed gently in the breeze, shops sold everything from wooden prayer plaques to fresh, sizzling street food. We wandered without a map, drawn by the scent of grilled oysters, the temptation of momiji manju (maple-leaf shaped cakes), and the sparkle of trinkets that make perfect keepsakes from this magical island.
Miyajima is a place where the past whispers through every breeze, and where the sacred still holds space in the everyday.
11 April 2025 – Kurashiki: A Stroll Through Time and Textiles
We said goodbye to Hiroshima this morning and settled in for a leisurely three-hour journey west, bound for the historic city of Kurashiki. A couple of comfort breaks along the way gave us the chance to stretch our legs and soak in the changing scenery, but the real highlight en route was our stop at Korakuen Garden—a living canvas of tranquility and elegance.
Korakuen is rightfully hailed as one of Japan’s top three landscape gardens, and it doesn’t take long to see why. Created around 300 years ago by the Ikeda family, who once ruled the region, it was designed as a place of peaceful retreat. Winding paths take you through a symphony of meticulously arranged views: tranquil ponds teeming with carp, quaint teahouses nestled among lawns, and waterfalls framed by borrowed scenery from the nearby Okayama Castle. There’s something timeless about the garden—each turn of the path offers a new perspective, a new scene, as if nature itself were performing for the visitor. As we gazed across the grounds towards the black keep of Okayama Castle beyond the trees, it felt like stepping into an Edo-period painting.
From this oasis of calm, we continued to Kurashiki—a short drive from Okayama but a world away in atmosphere. The heart of Kurashiki lies in its Bikan Historical Quarter, an exquisitely preserved canal-side district that echoes the elegance of its merchant past. Willow trees dip their branches into the quiet water, stone bridges arch gracefully over the canals, and flat-bottomed boats drift by, ferrying visitors through the centuries. There’s a distinctly Venetian quality to it—only instead of gondolas and gelato, we found kimono-clad shopkeepers, cozy cafes, and stores tucked inside restored Edo- and Meiji-era buildings.
Kurashiki’s prosperity is written in the very architecture along the canals—large, elegant houses once home to wealthy merchants, whose fortunes were made in rice and textiles. One such merchant, Magosaburo Ohara, left a lasting legacy in the form of the Ohara Museum of Art—Japan’s first private art museum. The museum, styled like a Greek temple, holds an astonishing collection of Western masterpieces from El Greco, Monet, Gauguin and Matisse, nestled alongside modern Japanese works. It’s a gem that feels at once intimate and world-class.
Kurashiki is the birthplace of jeans in Japan, and the Kojima district still carries the torch. Kojima Jeans Street is a denim lover’s paradise—rows of boutiques and workshops using traditional looms and dyeing techniques to produce garments with character and craftsmanship that mass production simply can’t match. Whether you’re a serious collector or just in the market for a new pair of jeans with a story, this place delivers.
As the sun dipped low over the canal and the lanterns began to flicker to life, we settled in for the night at the Kurashiki Royal Art Hotel—a fittingly elegant base in this city where art, history, and heritage come together so effortlessly. Tomorrow promises new adventures, but for now, Kurashiki has us spellbound.
12 April 2025 – Himeji Castle & Arrival in Osaka
Today marked the final leg of our journey, and what a way to start it—stepping back in time through the gates of Himeji, home to Japan’s most iconic feudal castle. Known as the White Heron Castle (Shirasagijo) for its graceful, soaring silhouette and pristine white walls, Himeji Castle is a masterpiece of medieval Japanese architecture. Standing majestically against a spring-blue sky and framed by cherry blossoms in full bloom, the castle looked like something lifted from a scroll painting.
We entered the castle grounds through the Otemon Gate and into the Sannomaru, the third bailey, which is open to the public and free to access. Here, we were greeted by a wide lawn dotted with sakura trees at their peak—petals drifting like soft pink snow in the breeze. It was breathtaking.
From there, we followed the twisting, maze-like path toward the main keep. Designed to confuse and expose attackers, the route winds through a series of gates and baileys, each turn offering a new vantage of the towering keep. The sense of history deepened with every step. At the heart of the complex, the six-story wooden main keep rises proudly, its elegant complexity enhanced by attached wing buildings—an architectural rarity among Japanese castles.
Unlike many other castles across Japan, Himeji has never fallen to war, fire, or earthquake. Over 400 years old and still standing in remarkable condition, it is one of only twelve original castles left in the country and is both a national treasure and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. You can feel its strategic importance, perched as it is along the western route to Kyoto, guarding the region as it has done for centuries.
We also ventured into the Nishinomaru, or west bailey, once the residence of a princess. Walking its 250-metre enclosed corridor, lined with simple, unfurnished rooms, offered a quieter, more reflective view of the castle grounds and a fresh angle on the keep itself.
By late afternoon, we continued on to Osaka, our final destination. We checked into the elegant Nikko Osaka Hotel, a fitting end to a day steeped in history and beauty. Tomorrow, the vibrant, modern face of Japan awaits—but today was all about timeless grandeur.
A Taste of the West and the Pulse of Osaka – 12 April 2025 (Evening)
After a day immersed in the elegance and history of Himeji Castle, tonight we found ourselves craving something a little more familiar—a break from sushi and soba. The solution? A proper double cheeseburger and fries at Shake Shack. Sometimes, nothing hits the spot quite like a juicy burger done right, and this one delivered. Crispy fries, melted cheese, and a cold drink in hand—comfort food at its finest.
Energised and refuelled, we plunged into the bustling heart of Osaka’s nightlife. The covered shopping arcades were packed, teeming with locals and visitors alike, all swept up in the vibrant hum of a Saturday night. Neon signs flickered overhead, shopkeepers called out their wares, and street performers added a soundtrack to the chaos. It was electric.
Our wandering led us to the Dotombori River, where we hopped aboard a Tombori River Cruise. From the calm of the water, we watched Osaka Minami unfold in a swirl of colour and light. Iconic signs like the Glico Running Man towered above us, flashing against the dark sky, while the reflections danced across the river’s surface. The city’s energy is infectious, especially from this perspective—an ever-moving canvas of music, movement, and glowing life.
Osaka doesn’t just stay up late—it comes alive at night. And tonight, we felt its pulse.
13 April 2025 – Sacred Deer and Giant Buddhas in Nara
Today we travelled back in time—way back—to Japan’s first permanent capital: Nara. It’s a city steeped in history, spirituality, and charm, but the very first thing that caught our attention? Deer. Hundreds of them. Roaming freely through the city and Nara Park like they own the place—and in a way, they do. These sacred deer, considered messengers of the gods, have become famous for their quirky behaviour: they bow politely in exchange for special crackers (shika senbei). It’s adorable, slightly surreal, and undeniably a highlight.
From there, we made our way to the majestic Todaiji Temple, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most significant temples in all of Japan. Originally constructed in 752, Todaiji once wielded such power that the capital had to be moved to reduce its influence. The temple’s scale is staggering—even more so when you realise the current structure is only two-thirds the size of the original. And yet, it still held the title of the world’s largest wooden building until recently.
Inside the enormous Daibutsuden (Great Buddha Hall), we stood in awe before the colossal 15-metre-tall bronze Buddha, flanked by two equally impressive Bodhisattvas. It’s hard not to feel dwarfed—not just by size, but by the sheer sense of reverence and historical weight that fills the space.
Before entering the hall, we passed through the imposing Nandaimon Gate, guarded by two fierce, towering Nio statues—designated national treasures that look like they could spring to life at any moment. The temple grounds themselves stretch over much of northern Nara Park, and we wandered through peaceful paths dotted with smaller shrines and halls, all under the watchful gaze of deer who appear at every turn.
By early afternoon, we returned to Osaka, giving us time to unwind and squeeze in some last-minute souvenir shopping. This evening, we gathered one last time as a group at a local English pub for a farewell drink—swapping stories, raising glasses, and reflecting on the incredible journey we’ve shared.
Tomorrow, we’ll explore Osaka one final time before heading back to Tokyo. But for now, Nara’s deer, temples, and towering Buddha remain firmly etched in our memories.
14 April 2025 - Depart Osaka
Our day is at leisure wandering around Osaka until the late afternoon when we travel to Osaka Airport for our evening flight to the UK with Japan Airlines via Tokyo. Some last minute shopping and a lot of waiting around and saying our goodbyes to our fellow travellers and tour manager, Phil Airey.
Reflections of Japan
As I reflect on our journey through Japan, I’m struck by the country’s remarkable ability to blend contrasts so seamlessly—ancient and modern, nature and concrete, quiet tradition and cutting-edge innovation.
From towering skyscrapers and densely packed high-rises to serene forests, sacred mountains, and exquisite gardens, Japan is a land of many layers. It’s a country with trees everywhere—lined along highways, tucked into city parks, and shading quiet temple grounds. Even amid urban sprawl, nature is never far away.
The transport infrastructure is something to behold—smooth, efficient, and punctual, with tunnels and railways linking the country like veins of precision. The famed Shinkansen seems to glide through the landscape effortlessly, symbolising the discipline and planning embedded in Japanese society.
Culturally, Japan is steeped in tradition. Shrines and temples dot the landscape, preserving a spiritual history shaped by Shinto and Buddhism. There’s a reverence for ceremony—whether it’s the quiet art of the tea ceremony, the grace of flower arranging, or the elegant simplicity of calligraphy. Even in bustling cities, you can feel a quiet undercurrent of reflection, rooted in philosophies like hansei (self-reflection) and ma (the meaningful space between things).
History isn’t hidden here—it’s remembered and honoured. Visiting Hiroshima, it’s clear the legacy of the atomic bombings still echoes. But more than sorrow, the people carry a deep commitment to peace, and a quiet resilience that is both humbling and inspiring.
Japan’s architecture reflects its cultural range—from grand castles and wooden machiya townhouses to sleek steel and glass skyscrapers. Every space seems considered, shaped with a respect for balance, beauty, and purpose.
Traditional Japanese cuisine is known for its emphasis on seasonality, freshness, and presentation. Iconic dishes include sushi, which features vinegared rice paired with raw or cooked seafood, often served with wasabi and soy sauce. Another popular dish is shabu-shabu, a hot pot meal where thinly sliced beef and vegetables are briefly swished in simmering broth and then dipped in flavourful sauces. Tempura, consisting of lightly battered and deep-fried seafood or vegetables, is a favourite for its crisp texture. Miso soup, made from fermented soybean paste, is a staple at nearly every meal, offering a warm, umami-rich flavor. Together, these dishes highlight the delicate balance and variety at the heart of traditional Japanese food culture.
The Japanese way of life is defined by subtlety and grace. People bow to each other as a sign of respect. Streets are spotless, despite the absence of bins. There’s no loud or antisocial behaviour, no one jaywalks, and smoking, eating, or drinking in public is rare. Cleanliness isn’t just a habit—it’s a national value, and it extends from private homes to buses, taxis, and even vending machines.
There’s also a deep patience and care in everything—from customer service to the way meals are presented. Things may seem slow to an outsider, but they are done with intention, and done properly. This applies not just to tradition, but to innovation as well—Japan’s mastery of robotics, precision engineering, and technology proves that progress and attention to detail can go hand in hand.
Then there’s Japan’s infectious pop culture—anime, manga, fashion, and gaming—global in reach, yet rooted in unique cultural expressions.
Pachinko is a popular mechanical game in Japan that resembles a mix between a slot machine and pinball. Often played in bright, noisy parlours, players launch small steel balls into the machine, hoping they fall into certain pockets to trigger a payout or unlock a digital slot-style game. While gambling for cash is technically illegal in Japan, pachinko parlours work around this by awarding prizes that can be exchanged for money at nearby, affiliated shops. More than just a game, pachinko is a massive industry and a unique cultural phenomenon reflecting both Japan’s love of technology and its inventive workarounds for legal constraints.
As I leave, I’m left with the impression of a country that defies simplification. Japan is a place of paradoxes that somehow fit together: ancient yet futuristic, structured yet serene, disciplined yet playful. And perhaps what’s most striking of all is the people themselves—polite, respectful, thoughtful, and quietly proud of their heritage.
Japan doesn’t shout about its identity. It simply lives it, beautifully and deliberately.
