16 July 2018 - Gruinard Bay to Applecross
We say goodbye to Gruinard Bay and set off for our next destination which is Applecross Camping Site. We have a choice of taking the little longer route around the north and west of the Applecross Peninsula or another road taking us via the Bealach na baa drover’s road through he pass. We decide on the longer route. We pass through Kinlochewe sitting
at the junction of the A832 heading north-west to Gairloch and the A896 heading south- west into the remote districts of Torridon and Applecross. Kinlochewe lies close to but not quite at the south-eastern end of the beautiful Loch Maree, beyond which rise the fantastic rocky ramparts of Slioch, The Spear, a 3,215ft mountain and mile or so north-west of Kinlochewe is the Beinn Eighe Visitor Centre.
We head south-west, the road follows Glen Torridon beneath the looming presence of two magnificent mountains,Beinn Eighe (3,313ft) and Liathach (3,461ft). Both provide excellent
walking, but none of it for the inexperienced. The ground is rough and steep, the area remote, and weather in Torridon can change rapidly. At the end of Glen Torridon, where it meets Loch Torridon is the village of Torriden at the point where it meets the sea. We follow the road west along the northern shore of the loch which is both scenic and dramatic as it winds its way first along the shoreline and then climbs through cliffs and gorges. On the south side of Loch Torriden the road continues to the village of Sheildaig. This was worth a stop a it is a picturesque place adorned with whitewashed cottages set against a stunning mountain backdrop. Sheildaig would be a finalist in any "most picturesque village in Scotland" competition. Its location is truly superb, on the edge of Loch Shieldaig, an offshoot of Loch Torridon, and perhaps best viewed from the minor road that twists and turns its way along the north coast of the Applecross from a junction a mile or so south of the village - you can have your “Kodak” moment. From here it can be seen set against a backdrop that rises above its immediate headland and takes in the mighty mountains of Torridon and Beinn Allegin and Liathach in particular. The village itself is a string of largely whitewashed cottages and other buildings laid out along the shore of the loch with others scattered up the rising ground behind it. What is especially nice is the way the seaward side of the road through the village has been grassed over for the benefit of those wishing simply to enjoy the views, and apparently some of the finest sunsets imaginable. Another especially nice touch is the provision of parking that helps keep the village street itself clear
We say goodbye to Gruinard Bay and set off for our next destination which is Applecross Camping Site. We have a choice of taking the little longer route around the north and west of the Applecross Peninsula or another road taking us via the Bealach na baa drover’s road through he pass. We decide on the longer route. We pass through Kinlochewe sitting
at the junction of the A832 heading north-west to Gairloch and the A896 heading south- west into the remote districts of Torridon and Applecross. Kinlochewe lies close to but not quite at the south-eastern end of the beautiful Loch Maree, beyond which rise the fantastic rocky ramparts of Slioch, The Spear, a 3,215ft mountain and mile or so north-west of Kinlochewe is the Beinn Eighe Visitor Centre.
We head south-west, the road follows Glen Torridon beneath the looming presence of two magnificent mountains,Beinn Eighe (3,313ft) and Liathach (3,461ft). Both provide excellent
walking, but none of it for the inexperienced. The ground is rough and steep, the area remote, and weather in Torridon can change rapidly. At the end of Glen Torridon, where it meets Loch Torridon is the village of Torriden at the point where it meets the sea. We follow the road west along the northern shore of the loch which is both scenic and dramatic as it winds its way first along the shoreline and then climbs through cliffs and gorges. On the south side of Loch Torriden the road continues to the village of Sheildaig. This was worth a stop a it is a picturesque place adorned with whitewashed cottages set against a stunning mountain backdrop. Sheildaig would be a finalist in any "most picturesque village in Scotland" competition. Its location is truly superb, on the edge of Loch Shieldaig, an offshoot of Loch Torridon, and perhaps best viewed from the minor road that twists and turns its way along the north coast of the Applecross from a junction a mile or so south of the village - you can have your “Kodak” moment. From here it can be seen set against a backdrop that rises above its immediate headland and takes in the mighty mountains of Torridon and Beinn Allegin and Liathach in particular. The village itself is a string of largely whitewashed cottages and other buildings laid out along the shore of the loch with others scattered up the rising ground behind it. What is especially nice is the way the seaward side of the road through the village has been grassed over for the benefit of those wishing simply to enjoy the views, and apparently some of the finest sunsets imaginable. Another especially nice touch is the provision of parking that helps keep the village street itself clear
of the clutter of parked cars that detracts from so many Highland villages.
Shieldaig comes complete with a small collection of tourist services, including a shop and a hotel. Near the end of the village overlooking the loch is the excellent “Nanny’s” coffee and tea room. It has been in existence for decades until the current owners demolished what was a tin shack and built a fit for purpose cafe. The home baked cakes and coffee are great and you can get local seafoods
From Sheildaig you have the option of taking in the remote Applecross Peninsula and its stunning views across to the northern end of Skye. There used to be only one road in, the Bealach na Ba, or Pass of the Cattle: steep, demanding - almost alpine in appearance - and apparently prone to problems in winter. The village of Applecross lies where the mountain road meets the sea. We have to decide on our route back either the return of our incoming journey around the west and north coasts of the peninsula and back to Sheildaig
a bit longer but more relaxing or the Bealach na Ba. The lochside road south of Lochcarron leads you past the old ferry slipway at Strome that once carried all traffic heading towards Kyle of Lochalsh. The narrows here are overlooked by the ruins of Strome Castle. The lochside road ends a couple of miles further south west in Ardaneaskan.
Shieldaig comes complete with a small collection of tourist services, including a shop and a hotel. Near the end of the village overlooking the loch is the excellent “Nanny’s” coffee and tea room. It has been in existence for decades until the current owners demolished what was a tin shack and built a fit for purpose cafe. The home baked cakes and coffee are great and you can get local seafoods
From Sheildaig you have the option of taking in the remote Applecross Peninsula and its stunning views across to the northern end of Skye. There used to be only one road in, the Bealach na Ba, or Pass of the Cattle: steep, demanding - almost alpine in appearance - and apparently prone to problems in winter. The village of Applecross lies where the mountain road meets the sea. We have to decide on our route back either the return of our incoming journey around the west and north coasts of the peninsula and back to Sheildaig
a bit longer but more relaxing or the Bealach na Ba. The lochside road south of Lochcarron leads you past the old ferry slipway at Strome that once carried all traffic heading towards Kyle of Lochalsh. The narrows here are overlooked by the ruins of Strome Castle. The lochside road ends a couple of miles further south west in Ardaneaskan.
