The Grand European Tour - Amsterdam to Budapest 

with Viking River Cruises

July 2023

 Amsterdam, The Netherlands

We arrive in Amsterdam on our short flight from Bristol and await our transport to the ship. They seem to have forfgotten us but a quick phone call and we embark our ship and settle into our stateroom. We have missed the trip around Amsterdam but have visited this city of charming canals, elegant gabled houses, splendid museums and abundant bicycles, in the past. 

KInderdijk

So our cruise begins at the waterfront in Amsterdam where our Viking longboat was docked. We sailed just before midnight. Though we missed out on seeing the tulip fields we looked forward  to our first stop at Kinderdijk, the largest remaining collection of windmills in Holland. By morning, we were anchored on the shores of the Lek River, looking down upon a landscape where 19 historic windmills stood more than 20 feet below water level. It was easy to imagine that this area had once been an uninhabitable swamp. The ingenious Dutch, however, made these low-lying lands safe for human habitation through the use of windmills.Kinderdijk is a village community in the Alblasserwaard province. This corner of South Holland, part of the scenic Waal and Merwede regions, has long been shaped by Rhine Delta waters. 

Today, water levels in Holland are controlled by high-tech pumping stations and sluices, but the UNESCO World Heritage Site at Kinderdijk provides a window to the past, demonstrating how the cogs, rods, rotating sails, shafts, scoop wheels, and screws were made by hand, as well as documenting the history of the millers who were responsible for the maintenance and operation of the mills. After a brief visit to the authentic workshop, where we learned the language of the sails (a diagonal “X” means the mill will not be used for a long time, a “plus sign” means a short rest, while more intricate sail positions indicate joy or grief), I climbed to the top of a working windmill that has been preserved in its original state, marvelling that the tiny interior had been home to a miller, his wife, and their 13 children as recently as 1950.

Scenic Sailing: Waal & Merwede

We sail the bucolic waters of the Rhine, deep into the Rhine–Meuse–Scheldt Delta, as classic Dutch landscapes unfurl all around. Flat farmland, charming windmills and svelte poplar trees line the shores, and vast tracts of land stretch in all directions, growing all manner of bounty, from tomatoes to tulips. We gaze upon Friesian cows and tidy villages with their neatly laid farmhouses and marvel at how much of this land was reclaimed from the sea, with the aid of traditional windmills and the construction of dikes.

Cologne, Germany

By mid-afternoon we were back on board, sailing through the day and night toward our second country, Germany. When we awoke, we were docking in Cologne, just upstream from the famous Cathedral. We joined the included walking tour. . It was, perhaps, one of the best decisions we made during the cruise. We have seen many places of worship in my travels, but few rival the beauty and sheer magnificence of the Cologne Cathedral. 

Cologne reveals its Roman heritage in its city layout and the ancient ruins that lie scattered through the town. Cologne’s modern plazas and Hohe Strasse host welcoming shops, enticing restaurants and cologne boutiques. Of note is the city’s 14th-century cathedral, a stunning example of Gothic artistry and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Having survived Allied bombs during World War II, the cathedral’s imposing twin spires are visible for miles and its stained glass windows fill the interior with brilliant colored light. Its steps lead to a platform with astounding views.

The following morning we sailed into the Middle Rhine. Here, vineyards carpeted the surrounding hills, making near-vertical descents to the banks of the river. Under brilliant blue skies, we rushed from side to side on the upper deck, shooting photos of myriad castles and fortresses that crowned the highest elevations or squatted on islands in the river. Historically, these lands had been carved up among noblemen, who made a fortune in tolls collected from passing ships.

Today the Rhine remains an important waterway, a fact that was driven home as we entered the flatter landscape of the Upper Rhine, where castles had been replaced by chemical and industrial plants. The further upstream we sailed, the more barges and tankers we passed, loaded with some of the 800 million tonnes of cargo that is transported on the river each year. Fortunately, we left much the commercial traffic behind at Mainz, where we veered off onto the Main River (pronounced “mine”), bound for Bavaria.

The next six days were a whirlwind of magical towns: Wittenberg, Rothenburg, Wurzburg, Bamberg, Nuremberg, Regensburg, and Passau, with their impeccable half-timbered houses, cobblestone streets, and picture-perfect town squares. And the waterway changed once again. Just before Bamberg, we left the Main River and turned onto the Rhine-Main-Danube canal, which connects the North Sea and Atlantic Ocean to the Black Sea, making our voyage possible.

Koblenz, Germany

Koblenz is a traditional German city, founded more than 2,000 years ago. This former trading settlement rests on a massif of the Middle Rhine Highlands. Its cobblestone streets, wood-beamed houses adorned with flowers, ancient market square and medieval churches recall the fairy-tale Germany of old. At the “German Corner,” a massive equestrian statue of Prince William I observes the lovely riverside scene. The famed Teutonic Knights set up their first base here in 1216. The Romanesque Basilica of St. Castor, Koblenz’s oldest building, dates to 836.

Scenic Sailing: Middle Rhine

The Rhine River flows through one of Germany’s most scenic regions. As you sail its most picturesque stretch, the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Middle Rhine, you will pass vineyard-blanketed hills whose steep slopes require vintners to pick grapes by hand, keeping a centuries-old tradition alive. Splendid castles line the banks, all of which have stories to share, and the Lorelei Rock presides at a dramatic curve in the river. This infamous river maiden mesmerised sailors with her song and lured them to their demise at her feet.

We journey along one of Germany’s most important waterways today, passing landscapes that embody the country’s scenic beauty and storybook charm. Wel sail by quaint riverside villages, undulating farm country and the sylvan forests of the Spessart woodlands. Along the way, you just lose yourself in the dreamy canvases of half-timbered houses, historic castles and splendid palaces. This is the Germany once ruled by dukes and brought to magical life by the imagination of the Brothers Grimm, who grew up in the town of Hanau and wove fantastic tales from these banks.

Miltenberg, Germany

The Franconian town of Miltenberg on the Main River is lively and romantic, nestled amid one of Germany’s fine wine-producing regions. Along its cobblestone streets and crooked lanes, medieval timber-framed houses are plentiful, giving a feeling of stepping back in time. The 13th- to 14th-century Miltenberg Castle dominates the town and the beautiful Renaissance Zum Riesen inn, hosting travelers since 1411, stands out for its rich history. The town prospered when it gained escort rights along the Main River; two forts once guarded the river crossing here.

Würzburg, Germany

Surrounded by Franconian vineyards, Würzburg was heavily damaged during World War II, but has since been completely restored. This prestigious university city is a jewel of baroque architecture. Its most pristine example of pomp and glory is the great Bishops’ Residenz palace, built in 1744 for the prince-bishop; his unwavering support of artists is evidenced by the sweeping staircase and magnificent ceiling frescoes by Tiepolo. Other landmarks include the medieval, statue-lined Old Main Bridge and Marienberg Fortress, originally a Celtic hill fort and later residence of the bishops. The city remains a major wine-making center, hosting Germany’s oldest and largest vineyard.

Bamberg, Germany

Founded in 902, Bamberg remains a medieval-looking city known for its symphony orchestra and rauchbier, specialty smoked beer. The city’s winding streets are filled with baroque patrician houses and are home to the stunning 11th-century Cathedral of Holy Roman Emperor Heinrich II, housing his tomb and that of Pope Clement II. Bamberg is especially noted for its Altes Rathaus, or Old Town Hall, situated on a twin-arched bridge over the Regnitz River, and for the old bishop’s houses: the 16th-century Alte Hofhaltung (Old Court) and 17th-century Neue Residenz (New Residence).

Scenic Sailing: Main-Danube Canal, Germany

As far back as 1,200 years ago, visionary Frankish Emperor Charlemagne contemplated connecting the Rhine, Main and Danube Rivers so ships could travel the length of Europe. Today, his dream dramatically comes to life. The Main-Danube Canal employs 16 stair-step river locks that allow vessels to travel 2,200 miles through 10 countries, from the North Sea coast of Holland to the Black Sea shores of Romania.

Nuremberg, Germany

The second-largest city in Bavaria, Nuremberg is filled with traditional half-timbered houses and Gothic churches with intricate spires. Although nearly destroyed during World War II, the remaining medieval city walls stretch some three miles and feature original gateways and 80 original watchtowers. Nuremberg is well known historically for its metal and toy craftsmanship. But it is infamous for its role in World War II, first as the site of Zeppelin Field’s Nazi rallies and later as the site of the war crimes trials at the Palace of Justice that captured the attention of a generation.

Regensburg, Germany

Having escaped major damage during World War II, the picturesque town of Regensburg is one of Europe’s best-preserved medieval cities, the oldest city along the Danube and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Old Stone Bridge, constructed in the 12th century, is a masterpiece of medieval engineering with its 16 arches. St. Peter’s Cathedral is widely considered Bavaria’s best Gothic architectural work. The old town’s Neupfarrplatz square is a cross section of history—it was once a thriving Jewish quarter, a bustling marketplace and the site of Nazi book burnings.

Passau, Germany

Founded by the Celts over 2,000 years ago, Passau is one of Bavaria’s oldest cities. Known as the “City of Three Rivers,” it rests at the confluence of the Inn, Ilz and Danube rivers. The city has long enjoyed its strategic position and grew to great economic and political power because of it. The legacy of its past prosperity lives on in graceful arcades, colourful houses with rococo facades and the glorious baroque St. Stephen’s Cathedral, home to one of Europe’s largest pipe organs. Passau is also where two nations meet; it is here that the German-Austrian border begins.

After a brief stop in Passau, we left Germany and entered the pretty Wachau Valley in Austria, a 25-mile stretch of the Danube between the towns of Melk and Krems. Over eons, the river has carved itself nearly 2,300 feet deep into the Bohemian Massif, leaving a landscape of sun-soaked, rolling hills that are perfectly suited for vineyards and apricot orchards. Following a visit to the 900-year old Baroque Melk Abbey, our ship continued to Krems.

Melk, Austria

Set amid an important wine-growing region of picturesque villages and fairy-tale castles, the charming city of Melk lies at the base of the Wachau Valley. We absolutely loved the imposing 900-year-old Benedictine abbey, a stunning example of baroque architecture, overlooks the town from its dramatic hilltop location. This architectural treasure has 365 windows, one for each day of the year, and the views from its expansive balcony are stunning. Its beautiful library houses priceless medieval manuscripts and marvellous frescoes by Paul Troger, and its meticulously kept grounds are inviting and picturesque.

Scenic Sailing: Wachau Valley

We sail through a serene tapestry of terraced vineyards, forested slopes, charming towns and castle ruins in Austria’s Wachau Valley, celebrated as perhaps the most scenic stretch of the Danube. Journey 18 miles through this vast UNESCO World Heritage Site, where the river courses through picturesque hillsides. Gaze upon the prolific grapevines and quaint wine-producing villages hugging the shores—the legacy of vintners that stretch as far back as Celtic and Roman times and an echo of the more than 30 monasteries that served as vineyards in Renaissance days.

Krems, Austria

This small university town at the eastern end of the Danube’s Wachau Valley, Krems is surrounded by terraced vineyards. In its heyday, during the 12th century, Krems held even more importance than Vienna for its iron, grain, salt and wine trade. As to the latter, the city has played a long and celebrated part in the popularity of the Wachau’s wine culture; the valley’s south slopes in Krems are bathed in sunlight all day and create some of the best Riesling and Veltliner wines in the world. The city’s cobblestone streets, taverns, wine bars and coffeehouses have a timeless appeal.

Though Krems has been in existence for more than a thousand years and was once as large as Vienna, today it is best known as the primary producer of Marillenschnaps, an apricot brandy. we walked the mile or so to Steiner Tor, the 15th century city gate that still functions as the main entrance to the historic centre, and wandered around until it was time to return to the ship for Viking’s Austrian-themed dinner with the staff decked out in lederhosen and drindl skirts..

Vienna, Austria

We have visited this wonderful city before and it still amazes us. Renowned as the “City of Waltzes,” Austria’s capital city of Vienna is Europe’s center of classical music. Strauss and Mozart composed many of their finest pieces here. Vienna’s musical history is matched by the elegant, graceful architecture that lines the Ringstrasse, the wide boulevard encircling the Inner City. Baroque, neo-Renaissance, Gothic-Romanesque and other splendidly styled structures, from the Hofburg Palace to the Vienna State Opera, take the breath away with their grand facades. Vienna has a more intimate side too: inviting footpaths lead through green parks and its famed Viennese cafés sweeten any stay with coffee and the city’s delectable Sachertorte.

we went on the included walking tour which was a good start, orienting us again to the city and providing a quick introduction to the most important sights, but afterward I had to choose how best to use my free time.We toured the Schonbrunn Palace, which was an additional tour and it was so beautiful both inside and the huge gardens. We signed up to attend a Mozart and Strauss concert that evening so suitable for a city renowned for its music, the concert was spectacular with also a sense of humour from the musicians. 

Vienna is considered one of Europe’s greatest cultural hubs. Its art scene has long been established with the Hapsburg’s collection of fine art, now housed at the Kunsthistorisches Museum. Today, Vienna’s modern side showcases street art murals that don the side of buildings along the banks of the Danube. Ingrained in local life is the long-embraced tradition of coffeehouses; UNESCO includes Viennese coffeehouse culture on its list of Intangible Cultural Heritages. It is considered one of life’s pleasures to while away an afternoon over an Einspänner coffee and a pastry.

Budapest, Hungary

By noon we were back underway, headed for Hungary and what turned out to be one of our favourite cities. The reflections cast on the tranquil Danube by the city’s brilliantly lit buildings.

Riverside beauty and a vibrant cultural scene blend together in Budapest to form one of Europe’s most rewarding cities. Hungary’s enchanting capital straddles the banks of the Danube, with traditional hillside Buda on one side and modern Pest on the other. By day, stunning art nouveau buildings, stalwart castles and grand palaces set the stage for inspiring strolls and long soaks in thermal spas. By night, the shimmering lights of the Parliament building dance across the waters of the Danube, the Chain Bridge uniting it all as a dramatic centrepiece. We joined the included walking tour but had booked well in advance for a tour of the Parliament Building - a good tip as it gets fully booked. The building is magnificent is the seat of the National Assembly of Hungary, a notable landmark of Hungary, and a popular tourist destination in Budapest. It is situated on Kossuth Square in the Pest side of the city, on the eastern bank of the Danube. It was designed by Hungarian architect Imre Steindl in neo-Gothic style and opened in 1902. It has been the largest building in Hungary since its completion. The architectural style of the Hungarian parliament building was influenced by the gothic Vienna City Hall, and the renaissance elements like the cupola was influenced by the Maria vom Siege church in Vienna.

We visited the Dohaney Street Synagogue a Budapest highlight, the largest Synagogue in Europe, second largest in the World seatiing 3000 people. Designed by German architect Ludwig Forster and built in 1859. 

 Viking River Cruises had outdone themselves: fifteen days, five countries, boundless memories and the perfect ending to a Grand European Tour. The ship is small enough for you to get to know most of the folks on board and a chance to bridge the cultural divide. There were folks from USA, Canada and Australia and with the ability to join any dining table to make lots of different conversations. The food and accommodation were first class. Viking had certainly thought of every little thing to make the holiday so memorable.