North Coast 500 Scottish Highlands

We are planning our trip to drive around the North Coast 500 in a motorhome. We have never motorhome before and have put a lot of planning into this trip.

We fly Easyjet from Bristol to Inverness on 10 July 2018 and will be met by the owners of Coast to Glen from whom we are hiring a 2/3 berth Elddis Accordo 125 motorhome.

We have planned to take the journey travelling anticlockwise so I can get a feel of driving the vehicle  on normal roads before attacking the single track roads with passing places.

We will spend 10 days starting and returning to Inverness. Below gives and idea of what we will see on our journey through Caithness & Sutherland.

Caithness & Sutherland together occupy much of the far north of Scotland.We begin our description of the area in the west, and move round in a roughly clockwise direction. Set  amongst the spectacular scenery of Assynt, Lochinver is a busy little fishing port with a regular fish market. The excellent Assynt Visitor Centre combines the roles of museum and Tourist Information Centre. There is a pottery with craft shop and a range of other retailers. High on the hillside above the village is the excellent Inver Lodge Hotel. South of Lochinver a narrow single track road runs through Inverkirkaig en route to Achiltibuie and the Coigach Peninsula.  The mountains of Sutherland and Assynt are popular with walkers. Suilven dominates the Lochinver skyline and is just one of a number of distinctive and isolated mountains running in a line parallel to the west coast. We have individual feature pages covering three of them: Suilven, Quinag, and Ben Stack.

Lochinver is the start of the Assynt coast road, the twisting single track road that runs north to the base of the Stoer Peninsula, then east to Kylesku. En route it takes in some of the most beautiful scenery in Scotland. Passing close to Achmelvich, it goes via Clachtoll, Stoer, Drumbeg and Nedd. Achmelvich is a tiny settlement with stunning white sands and turquoise blue water. A little further north the diversion to the Stoer Head Lighthouse is well worth taking. Inland, meanwhile, the main A road up the west coast goes through Elphin and Inchnadamph, passing the nearby ruins of Ardvreck Castle, en route to Kylesku. At Kylesku, a beautiful curving road bridge now crosses the mouth of two lochs. Overlooking the old ferry slipway in the village is the excellent Kylesku Hotel. Boat trips operate from here in the summer to Britain's highest waterfall at the head of Loch Glencoul, the 650 foot Eas-Coul-Aulin waterfall. 

Ten miles north of Kylesku is the popular holiday village of Scourie which offers safe bathing from its sandy beaches. From nearby Tarbet, it is possible to take a boat trip to Handa Island, a Nature Reserve with seabird colonies and seals. Close to Tarbet are the tiny settlements of Foindle and Fanagmore. A little inland from Scourieand just past Laxford Bridge and Ben Stack, is the tiny estate hamlet of Achfary.

North of Scourie is one of Scotland's major fishing ports, at Kinlochbervie. It is set in a rocky inlet off the main road system, but attracts traders from all over Europe to its fish market. Just north west of Kinlochbervie, beyond Oldshoremore and its own lovely beach, is the starting point for the 4.5 mile walk to Sandwood Bay, one of the most isolated and certainly one of the most stunning beaches in the country.     

Durness is the most north westerly village on mainland Britain and a good touring base. Despite major road improvements in recent decades, the last 14 miles to Durness from the south are of single track road, with rather more along the north coast as you head east. A couple of miles south west of Durness is the start of the easiest way to Cape Wrath, with a little seasonal ferry crossing the Kyle of Durness from Keodale.  Anyone visiting Durness should make a point of visiting Balnakeil, a mile to the north west. En route you pass a craft village, and at the end of the road is a remarkable golf course; an attractive ruined church; Balnakeil House, originally built as the summer palace of the Bishops of Caithness; and Balnakeil Bay, which stretches north up the west side of Faraid Head. This is one of the most attractive stretches of coastline in Scotland.  East from Durness you pass the car park at the top of the path leading down to Smoo Cave. The road then rounds the deep indentation of Loch Eriboll before heading across country to the bridge across the beautiful Kyle of Tongue. A diversion south from just east of Loch Eriboll takes you past the western ramparts of Ben Hope to Dun Dornaigil, a broch. North west of the end of the bridge over the Kyle of Tongue an unclassified road leads to the little known gem of Talmine. On the east side of the Kyle of Tongue is the village of Tongue, dominated by the ruined Caisteal Bharraigh and by Ben Loyal to its south. 

East again, and you come to the village of Bettyhill, created by the Countess of Sutherland in 1815 to house people cleared from Strathnaver to the south, and beyond it the crofting township of Strathy and nearby Strathy Point.Roads south from both Tongue and Bettyhill, bring you to the tiny hamlet of Altnaharra, primarily a base for fishing, complete with its well preserved Parish Church. Thurso is an ancient town. The name comes from the Old Norse, Thorsa, meaning Bull's River and in Viking times it was an important gateway to the mainland. Much of the economy of Thurso today is tied up with the presence of the Dounreay Nuclear Power Development Establishment, located on the coast eight miles west of the town. Thurso itself has plenty of character, as well as a beach and a castle. In the oldest part of town are the ruins of Old St Peter's Church which dates back to 1220. The old Town Hall and Carnegie Library are now home to Caithness Horizons, a superb modern museum. Just to the west of Thurso lies Scrabster, the main ferry port for Orkney, whose outline can be seen rising from the sea to the north. The Scrabster to Stromness service is operated by Northlink Ferries. Five miles west of Scrabsteris Bridge of Forss. On the coast nearby are the gloomy Brims Castle and the ruins of St Mary's Chapel, the latter being accessed from the hamlet of Crosskirk. Inland are the Cnoc Freiceadain Long Cairns.

East of Thurso is the planned village of Castletown at the southern corner of Dunnet Bay. Nearby is the Castlehill Heritage Centre and the Flagstone Trail, both of which celebrate Castletown's flagstone industry. Further round Dunnet Bay you pass the Seadrift Visitor Centre before coming to the village of Dunnet. Here you find the wonderfully preserved Mary Anne's Cottage. To the north is Dunnet Head, a windy, lonely spot: and the most northerly place on mainland Scotland. The highlight of this length of coastline is undoubtedly the Castle of Mey, mainland Scotland's most northerly castle and holiday home to the late Queen Mother for nearly 50 years. In the castle grounds are the Castle of Mey Gardens. On the shore nearby is the small but perfectly formed Phillips's Harbour. Travel east from Mey and you pass Gills Bay, from where Pentland Ferries operates a vehicle ferry to Orkney, before coming to Kirkstyle, home to Canisbay Kirk.

John o' Groats a little further east again, is possibly the most visited location in the area: the starting point for many a long distance walker en-route to Lands End. A seasonal passenger-only ferry makes the short crossing from here to Orkney. Two miles further east from John o' Groats is the lighthouse and spectacular cliff scenery ofDuncansby Head. The road south from John o' Groats meets the east coast at Freswick. The village of Auckengill is home to the Caithness Broch Centre, while on the shore nearby are the remains of Nybster Broch. A little further south is the settlement of Keiss, with a harbour and two castles.

Like Thurso, Wick has its origins as a Viking settlement, its name coming from the Norse Vik meaning bay. It became a Royal Burgh in 1589 but enjoyed its greatest prosperity in the 1800s when it developed as a thriving herring port, becoming the busiest in Europe. Wick and Pulteneytown, respectively on the north and south banks of the River Wick, together make up what is generally now known as Wick. The former has a busy shopping centre and many of its buildings show their Victorian origins, while the latter was the heart of the fishing industry. Pulteneytown is also home to Pulteney Distillery, the most northerly in mainland Scotland, and the excellent Wick Heritage Museum. On the cliffs south of the town are the ruins of the Castle of Old Wick. Three miles to the north-east of Wick,beyond the village of Staxigoe and near the Noss Head Lighthouse, are the ruins of Sinclair and Girnigoe castle. A good quality "A" road links directly back from Wick to Thurso, passing through the village of Watten and close to Halkirk.

South of Wick the main A99 tends to stay fairly close to the east coast, and passes through a series of attractive settlements and villages. On the coast near Thrumster is the haven at Sarclet. At Whaligoe, where the A99 meets the coast, the Whaligoe Steps lead steeply down 250ft to a harbour carved out of a cleft in the cliffs. Inland is the Cairn o' Get, one of a number of prehistoric monuments on the inland side of the A99. Others include the Hill o' Many Stanes and, further inland, the Grey Cairns of Camster. A number of prehistoric sites have been linked together by the South Yarrows Archaeological Trail, inland from Thrumster. Lybster and Latheronwheel are both villages with attractive harbours, though the former's is the busier. Lybster is also home to Waterlines, a museum dedicated to the fishing industry which was once so important here. An old church at Latheron has been converted into the Clan Gunn Heritage Centre & Museum, while beside the A9 a little further south west is the Laidhay Croft Museum.

The village of Dunbeath has an attractive harbour, a spectacular castle, and the excellent Dunbeath Visitor Centre.Inland is the poignant memorial to a wartime air crash at Eagle's Rock. Further south is Berriedale with its very steep descent and ascent on the main road, while on cliffs further south are the remains of the Badbea Clearance Village. Helmsdale is a very attractive village with a harbour standing at the mouth of the River Helmsdale. Here you can visit the Timespan Museum and Arts Centre and the Emigrants Statue. Inland from Helmsdale, the Helmsdale River flows down through Strath Kildonan, the focus of Scotland's very own gold rush in 1869 at Baile an Or, or town of gold. The main settlement away from the coasts of Sutherland is Lairg, found near at the south-eastern end of Loch Shin and surrounded by a vast heather and conifer clad landscape. Its railway station serves the whole of the sparsely populated far north west, and it tends to be a focal point for all the major (though mostly single track) inland roads in the region, both north-south and east-west. There are a number of shops and other facilities in the village. 

South from Lairg you meet the sea again at the head of the Dornoch Firth. Long before a bridge was built across the firth closer to the sea, Bonar Bridge, named after the Thomas Telford bridge built in 1812, was the old crossing point of the Kyle of Sutherland linking it with Ardgay. The settlement had been an important industrial centre in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, having a large iron foundry. Local oak woodland was felled for fuel and laid the landscape bare. Today, Bonar Bridge is surrounded by spruce plantations: though there are some more ancient trees, thanks to James IV. Visiting Bonar Bridge on one of his many pilgrimages to the shrine of St Duthus at Tain, he was so angered by the damage inflicted on the forests that he decreed new trees should be planted. Some still remain.  Ten miles west along Strathcarron from Bonar Bridge and Ardgay is the tiny settlement of Croick. Croick Churchwas the site of a particularly sad and unusually well publicised episode during the Highland Clearances.

Dornoch lies east of Bonar Bridge, beyond the north end of the bridge across the firth built in the 1980s. It sits on a headland facing across the Dornoch Firth and is surrounded by sand dunes. Its centre is dominated by its cathedral which dates back to 1239. Opposite the cathedral is the excellent Dornoch Castle Hotel. The town also boasts a championship golf course and is a regular halt on the golf-tour circuit of Scotland. On the coast north of Dornoch is Embo, home to a holiday village and to the Embo Cairn. Further on is Loch Fleet. Inland from Loch Fleet and on the road back to Lairg, is Rogart, a fascinating widely dispersed community. North from Loch Fleet on the coast are the towns of Golspie, and Brora. Both are well worth a visit. Just north east of Golspie is Dunrobin Castle, the fairytale family seat of the Earls and Dukes of Sutherland. This comes complete with large formal gardens and its own excellent museum. Brora is home to Clynelish Distillery. Between Golspieand Brora is Carn Liath, a well-preserved broch. 

India and Nepal (November 2017)

Day 1. DEPARTURE 

Thursday 9 November 2017

We arrive at London Heathrow Airport for our overnight flight to Delhi with jet Airways taking off at 20.50 flying overnight to Delhi arriving at 10.50am on 10 November 2017.

Day 2. ARRIVAL IN NEW DELHI

Friday 10 November 2017

 

On arrival we are met by our tour manager and local guide and taken to Leela Ambience Hotel in Maharaja Surajmal Road, New Delhi. After a short rest we are taken on a guided tour of New Delhi seeing the Rajpath, India Gate and parliament Builkdings. We also visit the Qutub Minaret the tallest stone built tower in India and Humayun’s Tomb. 

Delhi is a sprawling and ancient city of 13 million people in northern India. New Delhi, the national capital, forms a small part of the wider metropolis. Most people use New Delhi and Delhi interchangeably to mean the greater city of Delhi. 

Old Delhi today has a rich and colourful character stemming from its organic growth over several centuries and its still somewhat medieval ambience. Majestic monuments, labyrinthine alleys, crowds of beggars and street-vendors, bazaars of the jewellery market at Dariba Kalan, the embroidery brocade market at Kinari Bazar & the Parathewali Gali (Indian bread street) are all within the limits of Chandni Chowk (literally, “moonlit square”). A cycle Rickshaw tour through the winding lanes and by-lanes will show you all it has! 

In contrast stands the New Delhi of Edwin Lutyens, who also designed the vice-regal palace to represent "the ideal of British Empire". Close to the palace, the ceremonial Beating the Retreat is replayed each year on Republic Day as the sun goes down, showing off the monumental pink sandstone of the Secretariat.

Today Delhi is growing at a breathless pace, beyond the scattered citadels of erstwhile dynasties and far beyond the ken of the colonial and latter-day town plan. Delhiites display an amazing ability to adjust to influences from various communities and regions yet retain their culture.

Delhi is a modern and vibrant city, but also contains remnants of several cities attributed to its long history as a seat of power in the Indian subcontinent. Many of the vestiges of these ancient cities make for interesting day trips for those looking for an extended stay in Delhi. The ancient cities include: Indraprasta, Dhili, Mehrauli, Siri, Tuglaqabad, Jahanpanah, Ferozabad, Shergah, Lodi Complex, Shahjahanabad (now called "Old Delhi) and Lutyens (now New Delhi).

Arriving late morning we stay one night at the five-star Leela Ambience hotel, with all the excellent facilities you expect from an international hotel. After a rest we begin a guided tour of New Delhi, a beautiful city that clearly reflects the legacy of the British Raj. Surprisingly green, it is divided by wide tree-lined avenues with the Presidential Palace (formerly the Viceroy’s residence) at its centre. You see the imposing Rajpath, India Gate and the Parliament building and visit the 12th century Qutub Minaret – the tallest stone-built tower in India – and Humayun’s tomb, upon which the Taj Mahal is modelled.

 

Day 3. OLD DELHI & AGRA

Saturday 11 November 2017

Today we continue our sightseeing of Old Delhi taking in the memorial to Mahatma Gandhi and Raj Ghat. We see the Red Fort one of the world’s great fortifications with huge walls nearly 2 miles long. We also visit Jama Masjid the largest mosque in India able to hold 25,000 worshippers. 

·      Old Delhi - The Walled City of Delhi, founded as Shahjahanabad by the Mughals has 14 gates with 26 feet high walls, 12 feet deep made of impressive red stone and includes the amazing Red Fort. It's filled with many narrow streets, many with their own specialties: Silver, Wedding supplies, animals, spices, books. 

·      Red Fort - Laid along the River Yamuna (which is almost dry most of the time), Red Fort was built by Emperor Shaha Jahan (of Taj Mahal fame). It is today a symbol of independence. Depending on the time of year (not the winter), visit the Fort at night when they have a very good light and audio show that tells the history of the Red Fort and India. Hours: Open sunrise to sunset, Closed on Monday, Price: Rs.100

Major buildings within Red Fort

·      Chatta Chowk - This is a covered bazaar between the gate and the fort itself, now overflowing with keepsake hawkers.

Diwan-i-Am, (Hall of Public Audience). This building separates the external court from the internal court, and has a marble stage for the emperor's throne.

·      Hayat Baksh Bagh (Life-Bestowing Gardens) - Once a splendid garden of full of fountains and streams, now miserably all dry - only dry channels and acres of green grass stay behind.

·      Diwan-i-Khas (Hall of Private Audience) - Built entirely of marble, this is where the ruler received extraordinary visitors.

·      Khas Mahal (Private Palace) - The Emperor's main house. The octagonal Mussaman Burj tower looks out toward the Yamuna River, and is where the Emperor used to become visible before the public for each sunrise.

·      Rang Mahal (Colour Palace) - The residence of the Sultan's main spouse.

·      Mumtaz Mahal (Jewel Palace) - Contained six apartments for the Sultan's harem. Now used as a museum of court textiles, carpets, weapons, etc (free).

·      Daawat Khana - A minor palace at the northmost end of the Fort, this was initially the home of a prince, but it was rehabilitated into a tea house by the British, a function it continues today. Basic meals go for around 60 rupees, drinks 10-20 rupees, and it also has the cleanest toilets around.

·      Swatantra Sangrama Sangrahalaya (Museum of the Independence Movement) - To the left after the Chatta Chowk, this is a practically well-presented museum on the history of independence activism in India, starting from the Mutiny of 1857 all the way to Gandhi.

Other Places in North Delhi

·      Jama Masjid (Open sunrise to sunset; Entrance Rs.110) was built in 1656, Jama Masjid is the country's largest Mosque, opposite the Red Fort.

·      Chandni Chowk - Chandni Chowk or the moonlit square was the eyes and ears of the Mughal instincts, and still is by way of the largest whole sale commercial hub, designed by Jahanara Begum one of the daughters of Shan Jahan. This entire region was then known as Shahjahanabad. You can join a Heritage Walk through the lanes on a Sunday and explore it on a rickshaw on other days. edit

·      India Gate is a symbol of Edward Lutyens' architectural heritage. It is 42 metres high and was built as a War Memorial in dedication to the Indian Jawans (soldiers) who gave up their lives fighting in World War 1.

Central Delhi

·      Old Fort (Purana Quila) (Open sunrise to sunset. Entrance Rs.110) is a ruin of an old Fort in the heart of this capital, which gives a great character to the city. Built by the great Sher Shah Suri some time in the 16th century. It was from one of the towers of the Old Fort that Humayun fell and died.

·      Jantar Mantar (Open sunrise to sunset; Entrance Rs.100) is a natural observatory to see the movements of the stars and the planets. It was built on the lines of the one in Jaipur by Sawai Jai Singh in 1724.

·      Humayuns Tomb - Humayuns Tomb is aptly called the predecessor of the Taj Mahal because of its ornate Mughal style architecture, later perfected in the Taj Mahal, also built by the grieving wife of Humayun in 1565-66. The great architectural splendour becomes overpowering upon entering the lofty double-storied gateway. Simple, yet a work of highly developed engineering skill of the Mughal period. Hours: Open sunrise to sunset, Price: Rs.250 edit

·      Dargah Nizamuddin Aulia - Dargah Nizamuddin Aulia is the shrine of one of the most important revered Sufi Saints in India is close to Humayun's tomb. It was as per Humayun's wish that he was buried near the tomb of the Sufi saint and Shah Jahan's daughter, Jahanara, is also buried within the tomb complex of the saint next to the tomb of the poet Amir Khusro (who was a disciple and friend of the Saint). The live qawwali sessions held on thursday evenings here are not to be missed. Please note that the shrine is amidst people living in poverty therefore there are a lot of beggars in the vicinity. An option could be to get the food coupons that are sold in shops enroute to the shrine and distribute amongst the poor. edit

·      The Parliament House can only be admired from outside. Close to India Gate, Rashtrapati Bhavan (Presidential palace) and the North and South Blocks.

·      Gandhi Smriti - Gandhi Smriti on Tees January Marg is the former house of business tycoon Birla where Mahatma Gandhi spent his last 144 days of his life and where he was shot on 30th January 1948. The house has been converted to a multimedia museum and memorial for Gandhiji. edit

South Delhi

·      Bahai Temple - Bahai Temple is also called The Lotus Temple from the shape of its marvellous architecture built very recently. Hours: 9:30am to 5:30pm, Closed on Mondays edit

·      Dilli Haat is a place that gives promotion to rural artisans who otherwise do not have a way to get their products to market.

·      Khan Market is more or less in the heart of the city, close to India Gate. It is surrounded by housing complexes - government owned and private - including Golf Links, Lodhi Estate, Shahjahan Road, Pandara Road, Rabindra Nagar and Sujan Singh Park. Its vicinity are home to a considerable number of bureaucrats from the central government, and famous people like the satiric author Khushwant Singh. It is one of the greenest pockets of the city, very close to the famed Lodhi Gardens. Also in proximity are the India International Centre, the India Habitat Centre, offices of the World Wide Fund for Nature, and other organizations.

Mehrauli

·      Qutab Minar - Qutab Minar is considered one of the most perfect towers in the world and is 72 metres high. In front is an iron pillar built in the 5th century that has not caught rust to date. Belief has it if you can encircle your hands and hold both from drawing across your wish can be fulfilled. Hours: Open sunrise to sunset, Price: Rs.250 edit

·      Shrine of Khwaja Syed Muhammad Qutbuddin Bakhtiar Kaki - The most famous site in Mehrauli is the shrine of Khwaja Syed Muhammad Qutbuddin Bakhtiar Kaki, locally simply known as Qutb Sahib, who was a renowned 13th century Muslim Sufi mystic, saint, and scholar of the Chishti Order. This shrine has been held in great esteem by the rulers of Delhi and was continuously extended throughout the centuries. There is also the Jahaz Mahal ("Ship Palace"), Delhi's most important Jain pilgrimage site, the Dadabari Mandir, the mystical Kala Mahal building, the city's most beautiful baoli (step-well), the Rajao ki Baoli, and the Jamali-Kamali compound. Curiously, the shrine of the Sufi saints Jamali and Kamali is significant for the Indian gay community, which sometimes refers to it as India's only gay monument. edi

Afternoon flight Delhi to Varanasi. 

We take the 45 minute flight to Varanasi. Founded in the 6th century BC, and one of the oldest cities in the world, Hindus believe it to be the centre of their universe.

Nestling on the holy River Ganges, Varanasi’s old city is a labyrinth of tangled alleys, shops and workshops, through which we take an exciting rickshaw to the river. Buzzing with pilgrims, the banks are lined by high, centuries-old palaces, with descending steps or ‘ghats’ down to the waters. Here the faithful wash themselves in the holy waters while brightly clad Brahmin priests practise yoga and meditation. Boarding a small boat you explore this incredible waterfront. We witness the Aarti, one of the most impressive Hindu ceremonies, as large crowds chant and pray, setting small candles adrift on the water in memory of loved ones. You will also probably see several of Varanasi’s famous funeral pyres, where mourners gather and the whole riverbank glows with a flickering yellow as the deceased receives instant enlightenment.

We stay one night, with breakfast at the four-star Clarks Hotel.

Day 4 VARANASI

Sunday 12 November 2017

Monday 13 November 2017

As the sun rises this morning we take a boat ride where we see the faithful wash themselves in the holy waters, while brahmin priestspractrice yoga and meditation, then our guide takes us on a short walk through Varanasi’s old streets. In the afternoon we drive to nearby Sarnath where 2,500 years ago the Lord Buddha gave his first sermon fouding one of the most endduring of world religions. 

We visit the 1,700 year old Dhamekh Stupa, towering 31 metres high and is said to mark the spot where Buddha revelaed his eight-fold path leading to nirvava and visit the more modern temple devoted to him. 

Varanasi (also known as Benares and Kashi) is one of the oldest surviving cities of the world. According to Hindu mythology, Varanasi is considered to be one of the holiest cities in India. It lies along the banks of the sacred Ganges River, and it's believed that taking a dip in it washes away all the sins and purify the soul. Millions of devotees and worshipers throng this place to take a dip in the sacred Ganges River and pray in the famous temples of Varanasi. Mark Twain, the famous American writer, was so enthralled by the city that he once wrote: "Benaras is older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend and looks twice as old as all of them put together.” 

Visiting this holy town can be an experience in itself. The site of the Ghats full of activity can refresh the mind and soul of an individual. One can see the devotees taking a dip in the holy river, priests chanting the hymns and mantras and religious customs and traditions in full swing all over the place from morning to dusk.

Varanasi is also famous for its rich heritage of music, art, culture and its traditional art of silk weaving, the Banarsi silk Saris are famous all over the world. Banarsi ‘Pan’ is also famous all over India and is chewed by people across India.

River front, known as 'Ghats'

The city of Varanasi lies along the sacred Ganges River. The riverfront is about 4 kilometres long and it has universal appeal with hordes of devotees performing various rituals on the Ghats from morning to night. The Ghats are best viewed at dawn and are best approached by the ‘Dashashwamedha’ ghats, from where boats can also be hired at reasonable rates.

Kashi Vishwanath Temple

The Kashi Vishwanath Temple(also known as Golden Temple) is dedicated to Hindu God Shiva, who is considered one of the most powerful Gods according to Hindu religious belief. ‘Shivlinga’ installed in this temple is considered to be sacred and attracts people from all parts of the country to this historic city.

Other Sights and Activities

•   Central Institute of Higher Tibetan Studies- This institute was established by Dalai Lama in 1971 and it is amongst the few institutes of world which imparts education in Tibetan language. This institute has a rare collection of Buddhist test and Tibetan manuscripts.

•   Bharat Kala Bhawanhas a rare collection of miniature paintings of various schools of art, like the Rajasthani style, Pahari style, Nepalese and Tibetan style of painting.

•   Banaras Hindu University- This university was established in 1916 and it has grown into one of the most reputed universities of India.

 

Day 5 – Khajuraho

Tuesday 14 November 2017

This morning after breakfast we take the short 45 minute flight to Khajuraho.

Today we visit some of Khajuraho’s remarkable temples, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the seven wonders of India. Originally 85 temples were built between the 10-12th centuries and today, 22 of these mystical shrines survive. Their colours change with the intensity of the sun and the carved figures illustrate sensuous poses of such high relief that you can distinguish jewellery and manicured nails. 

Khajuraho (Hindi: खजुराहो) is a small town in the state of Madhya Pradesh of around 3,000 people. It is famous for the Hindu and Jain temples which are listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site for the beautiful erotic rock carvings of sculptures depicting Kama Sutra often referred to as the Temples of Love. The temples were built between 950 and 1050 CE and they represent the Indo-Aryan architecture. The people of Khajuarho still use some of the main temples to worship in. 

It is rumoured that there were once 85 temples believed to have been built between the 9th and possibly 12th centuries, but only 20 have survived, but remain in a good condition. As dense forest surrounded these temples it allegedly shielded them from the invading Muslim armies. A character called T. S. Burt who was British engineer claimed to re-discover the temples in the mid-19th century and was said to find the sculptures offensive. Of course, the local villagers and tribals have regularly these temples ever since they were constructed and did not need them to be re-discovered so this is a matter for debate! Also open to debate are a number of explanations and theories have been forthcoming over the years, for the presence of these quite graphic and erotic sculptures. There are no official records to reveal or prove the actual purpose of these temples and the sex/love scenes depicted, so it still remains an enigma and the theories may continue as excavation will also continue in this region.

During the evening we drive to the Chandela Hotel sataying the one night. 

 

Day 6. ORCHHA 

Wednesday 15 November 2017

After breakfast this morning we drive to Jhansi, one of the centres of the Indian Mutiny, we continue by coach to nearby Orchha. Surrounded by jungles, this remarkable medieval town is an architectural gem. Discover the 14 chhatris – or cenotaphs – built as memorials to its Bundela rulers. Soak up the magical atmosphere as parrots and vultures circle these mystical buildings, with fabulous views to the river. Marvel at the palaces of the Orchha Fort complex, admire the fine architecture and step inside to see the bold, colourful religious murals. After lunch at the splendid Amar Mahal Palace before continuing to Jhansi and boarding the Bhopal Shatabdi  Express in a comfortable air conditioned chair class car to Agra. 

 

The small town of Orchha (or Urchha), just a few hours south of Agra is positioned on the edge of the state of Madhya Pradesh and just a few miles west of Uttar Pradesh. With the Betwa River to the east which also surrounds the palaces and with huge rocks and boulders that seem carefully positioned on the rivers-edge the palaces seem almost unattainable.

Founded in 1501 CE by the Bundela chief, Rudra Pratap Singh, he became the first king of Orchha and went on to rule for 30 years.

Orchha means 'Hidden Place' and the majority of visits would agree with this description. Orchha's history has been captured in stone, many of the palaces and temples built by its Bundela rulers retain their grandeur and seem unaffected by modern day influences. 

Easily accessible from Agra and on the way to Varanasi, Orchha is often missed out but is well worth stopping off for a few days. Unlike a lot of India, Orchha is incredibly laid back and carefree and is becoming more and more popular with backpackers, hippies and tourists in general.

The Ram Raja Temple

Located in the centre of the market square, thousands of Hindus believe that the Lord Rama lives here, pilgrims flock to pray on a daily basis. This is the only temple where Rama is worshipped as a king.

Originally built for Madhukar Shah's wife in the 16th century, but became a temple when an image of Rama was installed and proved impossible to remove.

Chaturbhuj Temple

Dedicated to Vishnu, Chaturbhuj temple (chaturbhuj meaning four-armed), the temple has plenty of space inside and allows in a lot of light, which is unusual for a Hindu temple. It was built between 1558 and 1573 by Raja Madhukar.

A highlight of this temple are the views from the roof. Climbing the stairs you may need a torch, which of course can be bought from one of the main stalls at the bazaar.

Lakshmi Narayan Temple

Vir Singh Deo ordered the construction of the Laxmi Narayan Temple around 1622, but due to inadequate maintenance over the years the temple soon began to fall apart and had to be reconstructed by Prithvi Singh in 1793. The temple is worth seeing because it has been built using a mixture of temple and fort architecture.

Built for Laxmi, the Goddess of wealth, inner chambers were built for pilgrims to offer sacrifices to the Goddess. Strangely and unlike the majority of temples, there is no idol of the Goddess kept there.

Chhatris

These are dome-shaped pavilions built and then dedicated to the memory of previous rulers, including Bir Singh Deo. Located about half-a-mile outside of Orchha, these are best since as the sun is setting in the distance, while the birds swoop around the domes.

Jehangir Mahal

The Jehangir Mahalis Orchha's most admired palace. It was built by Bir Singh Deo as a welcome present for the Mughal emperor Jehangir when he paid a visit in the 17th century.

Two stone elephants guard the stairway, holding bells in their trunks to announce the arrival of the Raja. The palace is filled with light during the day due to it has countless windows and pierced stone screens looking out over the skyline to the west.

Raj Mahal

Rudra Pratap Singh ordered the construction of the Raj Mahal in the 16th century, however the palace was not completed until the successor to Rudra Pratap Singh, Madhukar Shah took power.

A key feature of the Raj Mahal are the lavish royal accommodations that are marked by elevated balconies. 

The interiors of the Raj are lined with mirrors and paintings which are all over the walls and ceilings, some of which are still in superb condition.

Saaket Museum

Housed here are some great examples of Indian folk paintings from the different states of India.

 

Day 7. Taj Mahal

Thursday 16 November 2017

We stay one night, with breakfast at the four-star Taj Gateway hotel.

We rise early to catch the sun rising over the Taj Mahal – undisputedly one of the world’s most beautiful buildings. In the soft morning light, as the mist rises from the Yamuna River, it seems to float like a mirage above the surrounding landscape. Built from dazzling marble, its colour changes from white to yellow, cream and almost to orange… an exquisite image that you’ll remember forever. Next you visit the immense Agra Fort. Completed in 1573 from red sandstone, dominating the surrounding area, this was the magnificent seat of the vast Moghul Empire. We return to the hotel for breakfast we then continue the visit to the Agra Fort the HQ of the Mogul Empire more of a palace than a fort!

This evening we can visit the Taj Mahal at sunset as an option. Bathed in light of a different colour, the varying shadows afford another view of this astonishing, world-renowned and enthralling icon.

TAJ MAHAL

India's most famous attraction, the Taj Mahal, is a mausoleum in Agra that was constructed under Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan in memory of his favorite wife, Mumtaz Mahal who died after giving birth to their son. The Taj Mahal (or simply "Taj") is considered to be the world's finest example of Mughal architecture and was recently voted as one of the New Seven Wonders of the World. Be sure to see this amazing site both in the morning and the evening.

Day 8. KATHMANDU

Friday 17 November 2017

This morning we drive to delhi Airport  and board our flight  to Kathmandu, capital of Nepal, one of the world’s most naturally beautiful countries. Set in a bowl-shaped Himalayan valley 4,500 feet above sea level, this captivating city and Nepal’s cultural breathtaking snow-capped mountains surround heart. The contrast with India is striking, with Buddhist temples reminiscent of the Far East much in evidence. We visit the famous 14th century Boudhanath Stupa, Tibetan in origin and one of the holiest of Buddhist sites. The gentle sound of chanting and praying fills the air, while traders sell lamps, cloth and all sorts of fascinating goods in an enchanting kaleidoscope of colour and noise. We stay two nights with breakfast at the sumptuous five-star Hyatt Regency hotel.

This afternoon we visit the 14^thCenttury Boudhanath Stupa, tibetan in origin and one of the holiets of Buddhist sites in Nepal. 

 

Kathmandu is the capital and largest city in Nepal. Set on an elevation of 1,337 metres above sea level, with a population of over around 800,000, Kathmandu is the the most modern city in the country - which isn't necessarily saying much. In Kathmandu, modern development encounters a laid-back, devoutly Hindu society.

Sights and Activities

Thamel

The heart of of "tourist" Kathmandu. A thriving labyrinth of narrow lanes and streets that no map can truly distinguish. Jam packed with hotels, hostels and guesthouses, a tout is never far away. Yet never so aggressive as to be annoying. Fake trekking stores offer fakes, copies of fakes, and fake copies of trekking gear. Some good, some not so good, and some to avoid so be careful. There are tour agencies, bookstores and restaurants everywhere you look so there's no chance of becoming bored. Though longer term back packers tend to find it's touristy ways a little much after a few weeks.

•    Z-Street- There were many hippies in the 1970s who found their way to Kathmandu and never left. Many of them opened businesses in this area. Several of Kathmandu's funky little backstreet cafes can be contributed to their presence and legacy.

Durbar Square

This UNESCO World Heritage Siteis the heart of the city. This a actually not one square, but three squares linked together. The area is packed with temples and other monuments, but its two most famous features are Hanuman Dhoka, the old royal palace, and Kasthamandap, the wooden house from which Kathmandu takes its name. The Taleju Temple which is overlooking the square is maybe the most beautiful, but is closed for the public

Durbar Squareis one of the seven groups of monuments and buildings which display the full range of historic and artistic achievements for which the Kathmandu Valleyis world famous. It is of extreme importance regarding the cultural heritage in the country. The seven groups of monuments and buildings, apart from Durbar Square, include Patan and Bhaktapur, the Buddhist stupas of Swayambhu and Bauddhanath and the Hindu temples of Pashupati and Changu Narayan.

Kumari Chowkis the closed off small courtyard where if you are very lucky you might get a glimpse of the living Goddess (the Kumari). She is transported through the city during the Indra Jatra Festival on a chariot. A part of the chariot can be seen from the higher steps of the Trailokaya Mohan Nayaran Temple.

To gain entrance to Durbar Square a fee needs to be paid. You will need to show your ticket also when you happen to be just passing the square on one of your walks. The ticket is only valid on the day it is stamped, if you need a longer duration ticket you can get these at the ticket office. Be aware that for tickets longer than 3 days, you will need to bring you passport and 2 passport-sized photo's.

Swayambhunath

Swayambhunath, or The Monkey Temple, is as its touristy name suggests a stupa that's overrun by primates. It's a good 15 minutes of steep climping to get to the stop, but worth it as this famous stupa is a spectacle to behold. Watch your valuables for primate hands dipping into it. There's a secret way into the temple around the back as well. But best to take the steps the first time you head up.

Pashupatinath

The Varanasiof Nepal. Burning Ghats, temples and Sadus abound in this religious and sacred place. Beware of Shiva's birthday though, it's the one day in the year Hashish is legal, so the crowds are huge!

Tibetan Monasteries

Kathmandu is surrounded my Tibetan monasteries. Visiting one is well worth the usual long hike you need to endure. Most are also open to volunteers.

New Road

It's not a great deal to see, but the place to come if you need to stock up on memory cards, batteries or get your camera equipment sorted out. Ignore Thamel's tourist prices, and go to the genuine dealers here.

 

Day 9. MOUNT EVEREST FLIGHT

Saturday 18 November 2017

Today we experience something most people never will, a flight to the Himalayas to see majestic Mount Everest. 

Twice the size of the Alps, their sheer immensity is mind-blowing. Carrying just 16 passengers, our aircraft flies over peaks and clouds bathed in an early morning golden glow. The 45-minute flight offers an incredible panorama and you can take a photograph of the world’s highest mountain from the cockpit. If conditions are unsuitable we have two more opportunities during the holiday. 

This afternoon you explore the fascinating sights of Kathmandu and visit Patan Durbar Square, one of the most glorious examples of traditional Nepalese architecture, full of centuries old temples and palaces.

Day 10. CHITWAN NATIONAL PARK

Sunday 19 November 2017

This morning we take the scenic drive to Chitwan National Park, Nepal’s most famous wildlife reserve and one of the finest in Asia. Overlooking the lush forested valley and the Rapti River, the Narayani Safari Lodge, where we stay for two nights with full-board is clean and comfortable but simple, without telephones or televisions – a real opportunity to experience and savour the peaceful surroundings. We visit a local village by ox cart to learn how local people live in a sustainable manner in harmony with their spectacularly beautiful surroundings. After dinner, a slide show brings the huge variety of flora and fauna of the reserve to life.

 

 

 

The Royal Chitwan National Park in Nepal was established in 1973 and contains 932 square kilometres with a diversity of ecosystems-including the Churia hills, Ox-bow lakes, and the flood plains of the Rapti, Reu and Narayani Rivers. It is located west of Kathmandu at the foot of the Himalayas and is one of the few remaining undisturbed vestiges of the 'Terai' region, which formerly extended over the foothills of India and Nepal. It has a high biodiversity which makes this park unique in Nepal and wildlife includes one of the last populations of single-horned Asiatic rhinoceros and several dozens of Bengal tiger, although it is a matter of pure luck to see this elusive big cat. It is placed on the Unesco World Heritage List.

There are so many things to see and do in the area. You could float down the river at dawn as the mist rises off the water, watching as the storks and spoonbills pick their way through the weeds hunting for breakfast. You could take a 'jungle safari' throught the forest on top of an elephant. Believe it or not, crashing through the undergrowth on this huge beast is your best chance of spotting rhinos. Often the elephant will walk right up to them while they're grazing and the rhino won't bat an eyelid. To a rhino, humans on foot are far more worrying than on elephant back so you'll be able to get a really close look at their incredible leathery skin, while still at a very safe distance. The lodges around Chitwan National Park will offer treks into the jungle on foot, varying from 3 hours to 3 days long. One of the highlights of a trip also is visiting a traditional Tharu village where you can help collecting jungle vegetables and preparing a meal sharing it with a local family. Washing an elephant in the river and having her give you a shower from her trunk is also a memorable experience!

 

 

 

 

Day 11. CHITWAN SAFARI

Monday 20 November 2017

Viewing wildlife in its natural habitat is often a life-changing experience. Rising early, as the sun breaks and accompanied by a unique ‘dawn chorus’, we cross into the reserve in the traditional manner – on elephant back. This gentle giant quietly brushes through the undergrowth without disturbing other animals to ensure wildlife viewing at its best. Each elephant carries four people and your naturalist guide should help you spot rhino, sloth bears, wild boar and if you’re very lucky, a Royal Bengal tiger. We return to the hotel for breakfast, after which there will be an opportunity to watch the elephants bathing in the river. After lunch, we have the option of a trip by dugout canoe to a crocodile farm, returning on foot along the riverbank.

 

Day 12. POKHARA

Tuesday 21 November 2017

We drive north towards the small town of Pokhara in central Nepal. Inhale the clean air, taking time to fully comprehend the staggering beauty of an area surrounded by some of the world’s highest mountains. This afternoon, we take a boat ride across Lake Phewa for unbeatable views of the Annapurna mountain range. Watch reflections of their dazzling white peaks sparkle in the mirror-like water, and listen to the soothing sound of silence. This is probably one of the finest mountain panoramas in the world. We stay for two nights at the four-star Pokhara Grande Hotel with breakfast.

 

Pokhara is Nepal's second city located by Phewar lake which is a popular spot for trekkers going to and from their treks in the Annapurna range. Pokhara is extremely beautiful in its own right, as you can see some of the huge peaks of the Annapurna range including Machapuchare (or 'Fishtail mountain') towering over the town and the lake.

Pokhara is one of the most popular tourist destinations in Nepal, and Lakeside in particular is a tourist haven, with many shops, bars, restaurants as well as trekking supplies. The World Peace Pagoda, which stands on nearby hill next to Phewar lake, is a great spot to view Pokhara and the Annapurnas. Paragliding is also popular here, where several companies can take you to nearby Sarangkot for the thrill of jumping off the hill amongst a spectacular landscape, to land beside Phewar lake.

Pokhara is one of the main bases for trekking in the Annapurna region of the Himalayas. Many tour operators work out of Pokhara and it's hard to avoid them. Popular treks include the Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) and the Annapurna Circuit.

Trekking around Pokhara is not so hard, depending on your level of fitness and the time of year. During the winter months trekking should not be taken lightly as the weather can become hazardous. Altitude sicknessis a real danger and several people do die every year. You don't really need to worry too much about Altitude Sickness if you are sticking to the lower reaches of the Annapurna treks. The majority of altitude sickness only occurs above around 3,500 metres. Poon Hill, the highest point of the 4/5 day Ghorepani loop, is around 3,210 metres, so you shouldn't experience any problems. Having said that, the best thing to do is listen to your own body - take everything at your own pace and rest regularly.

The Annapurna Circuit

A typical Annapurna Circuit Trek would take 16 to 21 days. It will take you from Pokhara through lush valleys to rocky villages. 

•   Phewa Tal trek- 1 day - an easy going yet early start trek around Pokhara's lake.

•   Boating- There is nothing quite a tranquil as taking a small rowing boat out into the still waters of Lake Phewa Tal. You can hire a boat with a man to take you, or you can paddle yourself. A return trip to the Peace Pagoda is Rs 500 while an all day trip is Rs 900. Kayaks are also available for rent.

•   Rafting- The local Seti and Kali Gandaki rivers offer great rafting trips. Trips can be arranged as day excursions or up to five days full on camping trips.

•   Shopping- Kathmandumay have the edge in artifacts and trinkets, but there's nowhere else in Nepalthat can top Pokhara for counterfeit trekking stores. There are dozens of outlets lining lakeside's main road. All selling the latest Chineseand local rip offs of Northface and other trekking companies' gear. All this at rock bottom prices. If buying it's worth checking the goods out very well beforehand. A good all weather jacket that could cost €400 can be grabbed for €40, but the stitching may mean it will only last a month. Pull and Tug everything you are thinking of buying, and you may come away with a bargain.

Day 13. POKHARA

Wednesday 22 November 2017

Wake up early today and catch the sun rise over the Annapurna range, a truly magical experience. Watch the mountain peaks turn from soft pink to shimmering gold as the sun climbs higher in the clear blue sky. There are twelve peaks in the world higher than 25,000 feet, eight of them are in Nepal and from this spot on clear days you can see three of them. Truly staggering!

In the afternoon, we fly back to Kathmandu for our final night at the five-star Hyatt Regency hotel.

Day 14. RETURN FLIGHT

Thursday 23 November 2017

An early breakfast as we have to depart for our flight to Khathmandu for our final night at the Hyatt Hotel. 

Day 15  - Home via Delhi arriving later the same day.

Friday 24 November 2017