China and Hong Kong

China and Hong Kong 2012


This was our journey through China starting 31 August 2012. We set off from Heathrow on British Airways flight. We hope to visit some of the highlights of China in just 12 days by exploring cosmopolitan Shanghai, China’s most cutting-edge, modern city. Cruising the legendary Yangtze between Wuhan and Chongqing through the scenic Three Gorges and wildly beautiful Lesser Gorges. Touring the Three Gorges Dam, an engineering marvel that has changed the face of China. Visiting Xian and looking into the faces of thousands of Terra Cotta Warriors. In Beijing, exploring historic imperial treasures like The Forbidden City, Great Wall and famed Summer Palace, and walking through Tiananmen Square, the world’s largest public venue.We end up flying to Hong Kong a unique place we have visited twice before and very much loved. 






Shanghai - 30 August 2012

We arrive in Shanghai around midday and taken straight to our hotel the Portman Ritz Carlton sounds posh and is absolutely luxurious. We have some free time this afternoon and evening but just need a couple of hours sleep to catch up on the jet lag after our 13 hour journey. 

On waking we explore the environs of the hotel and the street areas along the road. The hotel front seems full of expensive cars and very much a feeling of sheer luxury. There are 4,000 skyscrapers in Shanghai, and we were staying opposite the Shanghai Conference Centre. This city seemed to fizz and the night skyline was breathtaking. However at the rear of the hotel one could see at once the inequalities with blocks of shanty flats with chickens running about on the terraces and what seemed sheer squalor. We had not yet met our fellow travellers and so at the moment we were lone travellers with little knowledge of this vast city. We spot a large American style shopping mall with the usual designer stores such as Prada etc but wandering through it felt like the ‘Marie Celeste; with staff half asleep and hardly any customers or window shoppers. A quick evening meal deciding not to try the Chinese offerings immediately we end up in a wonderful pizza restaurant in the foyer area of the hotel. 

This hotel is in a really good location with shopping mall along the road,street market and small restaurants close by. We were on the 18th floor and had terrific view across the city. Service was excellent from the porters delivering our baggage to welcoming reception staff and concierge providing local information. Our room was luxurious with immaculate en-suite and two double beds joined together. Everything was immaculate and spotless. Having arrived a little late  and a catch up on our sleep we just wanted a quick meal and ate in the Pizza restaurant in the Front of the hotel - seemed the best pizza ever. The hotel is located in Jing'An district and it is the very center of downtown Shanghai City. The hotel is 10-minute walk from the nearest metro station. There are many good restaurants inside the hotel, from Chinese style to Italian style. Just along the road the large American style shopping mall contained the usual designer shops Prada etc. and we notice that in the other direction is an interesting Buddhist Temple just 10 minutes walk along the main road seemingly well worth a visit and good photo opportunity. Just opposite there we were entertained by dancers and musicians performing on the side of the street. Breakfast at this hotel was excellent good choices of fresh fruit and yoghurts and choice of Chinese or western foods.

We visit the Jade Buddhist Temple situated in the western part of Shanghai, just 5 minutes walk from our hotel.  In 1882, an old temple was built to keep two jade Buddha statues which had been brought from Burma by a monk named Huigen. The temple was destroyed during the revolution that overthrew the Qing Dynasty. Fortunately the jade Buddha statues were saved and a new temple was built on the present site in 1928. It was named the Jade Buddha Temple.

The two precious jade Buddhist statues are not only rare cultural relics but also porcelain artworks. Both the Sitting Buddha and the Recumbent Buddha are carved with whole white jade. The sparkling and crystal-clear white jade gives the Buddhas the beauty of sanctity and make them more vivid. The Sitting Buddha is 190 centimeters high and encrusted by the agate and the emerald, portraying the Buddha at the moment of his meditation and enlightenment. The Recumbent Buddha is 96 centimeters long, lying on the right side with the right hand supporting the head and the left hand placing on the left leg, this shape is called the 'lucky repose'. The sedate face shows the peaceful mood of Sakyamuni when he left this world. In the temple there is also another Recumbent Buddha which is four meters long and was brought from Singapore by the tenth abbot of the temple in 1989. Furthermore there are many other ancient paintings and Buddhist scriptures distributed in the different halls of the temple. 

Wandering along this street we pass dancers performing on a stage set up on the side of the road. There are noodle bars and shops selling handmade shoes, handbags and smoking pipes, and see groups of youngsters eating chicken and mutton kebabs. This is local life for many, the roots of a more authentic Shanghai.
Friday 31 August 2012

This morning we are placed in groups and we meet our Guide for the rest of the trip, Charles Wang. He seems very organized and his group consists of 28 people mostly couples and mostly Brits. We are issued with a Vox sound system and given a number so that he can ‘roll call’ to keep us all together. Very much like going back to school. We enter our coach to visit Old Shanghai and travel along the elegant Bund, stopping to admire some of its historic buildings and city views. 


We explored the narrow lanes of Old Shanghai, the five-acre Yuyan gardens, where Ming emperors had dallied with their concubines, and the Shanghai Museum's treasure trove of ancient Chinese art and culture. With our heads spinning with dynastic information about the Shang, the Zhou, the Xin and the tang, not to mention the Ming and the Qing, that evening we were dazzled by a gravity-defying acrobatic display. Tired, but with the charms of Shanghai far from exhausted, we welcomed the prospect of five days aboard ship to recuperate and enjoy the towering scenery.






We tour the Shanghai Museum, featuring displays of ceramics, bronzes, calligraphy and paintings. We visit a silk embroidery factory to see a demonstration of this delicate art. After lunch, we spend some time at the exquisite Yuyuan Garden, dating back to the Ming Dynasty. 


The Yu gardens are an excellent model of classical Chinese gardening architecture under State preservation. it was built during the reign of Ming Emperor Jiajing (1559) as the private garden of Pan Yunduan the administrative commissioner of the Sichuan province. It covers and area of over 2 hectares and is famous for a number of architectural marvels such as the Big Rockery, the naturally hollowed Jade boulder and hall of of an Emerald Touch of Spring as well as the Inner Garden. In the evening we enjoy dinner at a local restaurant before seeing the world-famous Shanghai Acrobatic Troupe show from the best seats in the house.The Acrobatics at Shanghai are not to be missed. They are held each night and last for about 2 hours. The Shanghai Acrobatic Troupe, established in 1951 is one of the best in China. It frequently tours internationally and performs routinely at Shanghai and other cities in China. An acrobatic show has become one of the most popular evening entertainments for tourists in Shanghai. You can enjoy gravity-defying contortionism, juggling, unicycling, chair-stacking, and plate-spinning acts.




Saturday 1 September 2012

Wuhan & Shanghai

After breakfast, we fly to Wuhan and visit the Hubei Provincial Museum where you hear the music of ancient bronze bells. 


These bells were buried with the tomb of Marquis Yi of Zeng at Leigudum in the suburbs of Sui County in Hubei and excavated in 1978. The feudal King was buried some 2,400 years ago and these form part of the ancient relics from the tomb. 



We then join our river cruise ship the Century Viking. On the way to our ship we see more modern buildings. Flowing from the Tibetan Plateau to the East China Sea, the Yangtze flows for 4000 miles and is a natural division between north and south. Life on board Century Viking is relaxed with plenty to occupy the time and mind. Simple lessons in Chinese or early morning Tai Chi would enable you to at least greet our hosts with 'hello' and 'thank you' in a peaceful frame of mind. Chinese history is totally absorbing and daily talks enlightened us. Taking part in the Tai Chi before breakfast for those energetic folks and for some just thinking about it and breakfast!  We pass under the Wuhan Bridge where in 1966 chairman Mao, then in his 70s, famously swam across the Yangtze. China was then in the throes of economic catastrophe and widespread famine when Mao theatrically signalled that he was in robust health and well able to withstand his critics.


The river bustles and ancient meets modern as tiny sampans bob in the muddy brown wake of enormous coal barges and freighters. Gilded temples and pagodas rise majestically over industrial wharfs while, high above in the sheer rock face of the gorge, ancient coffins are suspended in caves, their residents undisturbed for centuries.
Rural china is very poor, and Viking River Cruises sponsors a school at Yueyang where the enthusiasm of the children was infectious. They came on board ship and produced an emotional song-and-dance show highlighting their appetite for learning and to ensure they have a better life than their parents. 






Three Gorges & Lesser Three Gorges


For 150 miles we travel the most scenic stretches of the Yangtze as it forces its way through a spectacular series of limestone ridges known as the Three Gorges and through Xiling Gorge, the longest of the Three Gorges. We pass firstly through this Gorge which is the longest of the Three Gorges. 







It takes a day to pass through the gorges, at times only about 165ft wide, while wooded buttresses of granite tower above, waterfalls cascade down and wild monkeys scamper among the trees.


The controversial Three Gorges Dam (the world's largest) is a symbol of Chinese pride and power. As well as enormous hydro-electric output, it increases shipping capacity and protects villages downstream from the flooding that has claimed millions of lives since time immemorial.But more than a million people were compulsorily moved from their homes, hundreds of towns, villages and historic sites flooded and communities destroyed for its construction. Still, we were tourists, there not to judge, but to marvel at an amazing feat of engineering in an area of awe-inspiring natural beauty.












2 - 5 September 2012

During breakfast, we cruise through Qutang Gorge, the shortest, narrowest and most spectacular of the three large gorges. Then, board a smaller boat for an excursion through the Lesser Three Gorges. Sailing through these remarkable canyons flanked by towering cliffs is quite breath taking. Along the way, see fascinating sites including the hanging coffins of the Ba people and the ancient plank road carved into the cliffside.



 We spend the afternoon sailing through Wu (Witches) Gorge, renowned for its magnificent scenery. Dinner is served aboard our ship as we sail through the five-stage locks of the Three Gorges Dam. 


This morning we disembark for a tour of the Three Gorges Dam where you learn about this immense engineering masterpiece and what it means for the Chinese people and the Yangtze. Sandouping village is the site of this monumental engineering feat. The hydro-electric project completed in 2009 when the river rose 575 feet above sea level displacing 1.25 million people, submerging 13 cities and 140 towns and 1,352 villages flooding the narrow gorges of the Yangtze’s tributaries creating a lake behind the dam. it is supposed to produce the power of 15 nuclear plants as well as controlling the flooding problems that devastated many parts in the past. It is impressive and difficult to understand the whole workings but we have had a closer look as we passed through the 5 locks. 

Cruising along the Yangtze River, one will see a huge rock standing along the river's northern bank in the Territory of Zhongxian County of Chongqing. The Rock, 164 feet high, is in a shape of an imperial seal. A vermilion 12-storey pavilion has been built against the rock. A legend tells that when Nu Va patched up the sky, she left this large colored stone, regarded as precious stone and where later during the Ming Dynasty (1368 - 1644) an insurgent army settled and used it as their fortress. Hence the place got its name the Precious Stone Fortress.

Built in the Ming Dynasty, Shibaozhai consists of a gate, a pavilion and a temple. The gate is caved with some vivid reliefs. Within the gate is the 184 feet high 12-storey wooden pavilion. It is the tallest specimen of ancient architecture with the most storeys in China and reputed as one of the eight fantastic examples of architecture in the world. Originally it was only nine storeys high; in 1956 three more (called Kuixing Pavilion) were added. We climb the spiral staircase in the pavilion to the top to reach the temple.


Inside the pavilion, there are steles and inscriptions of past dynasties of each floor. Visitors can also admire the spectacular Yangtze River from the windows of each floor. As the higher floor is reached, the space becomes narrower. Originally, there was no such building. The temple at the top could only be reached by path hewn in the rock with an iron chain to hold on to. A clever artificer once saw an eagle spread its wings and flying little by little up to the temple, which gave him the idea for creating a scaling ladder within a building and so the pavilion was erected.Upon arriving at the top of the pavilion, there is a flat stone dam. Here stands the ancient 'Lanruo Temple' at the highest point of the Precious Stone Fortress. A mural depicting the story of Nv Wa patching up the sky can be seen in the main hall of the temple. The so-called Rice Flowing Hole can be seen at the rear hall. According to a legend, rice once flowed from the hole everyday after the temple was built. A greedy monk wanting more rice to flow from the hole made it larger and from that day no more rice appeared!
After the water level rises because of the Water Storage of Three Gorges Dam Project, part of Shibaozhai can be submerged. Thanks to a wise decision to protect the relic, it has been well preserved after a series of measures.
We had settled into life on board, enjoying the tranquillity and excellent cuisine. The Crew Cabaret on our last evening was unexpectedly enchanting, with mechanics and stewards displaying dazzling skills as dancers, singers and acrobats. Somewhat reluctantly, we left at Chonqing seemingly with a population of 33 million people, picking our way along the jetty past another world where people were eking out  a living selling a few vegetables, postcards or souvenirs.


Thursday 6 September 2012


Chongqing is the largest municipality located in southwest China. It is a port city in the upper reaches of the Yangtze River at the confluence of the Yangtze and Jialing Rivers. Since its founding 3,000 years ago, Chongqing has been called Jiangzhou, Yuzhou, and Gongzhou, before getting its present name nearly 800 years ago. Since the Qin Dynasty (221 BC-206 BC), many dynasties have set up administrative institutions that have endowed the city with brilliant cultures. Perched beside the Yangtze, the "Golden River," Chongqing symbolizes Yangtze River civilizations and is the cradle of Bayu culture.



Today, Chongqing is a modern city, China's fourth municipality after Beijing, Shanghai, and Tianjin. Within its borders it encompasses a wealth of water reserves, mineral resources, dense forests, and abundant flora and fauna. The focal point of the unique Yangtze Three Gorges Dam, it is a tourist attraction as well as a commercial city .Located in the west of Chongqing City, Chongqing Zoo was built in 1955, and covers an area of 45 hectares. It is one of China’s Mid-scale zoos, and is set amid rolling hills and beautiful natural scenery.   

The zoo serves as both a reserve and the base of the breeding program for giant pandas, lesser pandas. During recent years, the zoo has expanded and added a new Antelope Room, Elephants Room, Giraffes Room, Panda Room, Orangutans Room, and Avian Room to further protect endangered species. The zoo is surrounded by beautiful mountains with abundant natural scenery, making it a true treasure in the area.


The Panda Bear is the symbol of China and a national treasure. Its popularity and the excellent Panda exhibits attract tens of thousands of people. In 2006 there were only 1758 pandas in the world. Opportunities to see this grand creature are dwindling with the species. It is the goal of the zoo to not only give you this opportunity, but to also make more opportunities for future generations through breeding. 







Xian, is the key city of the Tang Dynasty. From 618 to 907 A.D., this dynasty presided over one of China’s most glorious cultural periods spreading its influence throughout Asia into Europe and Africa. This evening,whilst still in Chongqin we chose to dine surrounded by the song and dance of this colorful era. Music and dance seems to have been part of Chinese life long before the tang Dynasty but turned into an art form. Drums accompanied by the pipa a lute like instrument and performers in elaborate costumes danced and enacted traditional stories for the court. This was a performance to be savoured with a sumptuous banquet. The performance was recreated in accordance with various historical records and ancient arts inherited from the Tangs. 





Friday 7 September 2012

It’s an uncomfortable truth but today’s standard of living is quickly forgotten on a visit to China’s former capital Xi’an. It is known as the Treasure Pot because it is home to the semi-precious jade stone and 8,000 finely-detailed, life-size soldiers of the Terracotta Army, made 2,000 years ago.The warriors, created to protect emperor Qin Shi Huang in the afterlife, can be seen in three pits and an incredible sight awaits when you first walk into the main excavation site.Hundreds of intricately detailed grey soldiers and horses stand formidably in wait for you, while work continues around them unearthing more treasure from the ground. How can these “men” have been hidden in the ground for so many years? 


Without doubt Xi'an is now known solely worldwide as the home of the Terracotta Warriors, the warriors and horsemen, a mere fraction of whom have been uncovered to date, genuinely inspire awe. Despite having seen a couple on display at the British Museum a couple of years ago, I was unprepared for the sheer majesty and scale of the ancient burial site where, in 210 BC, the first Emperor Quin Shi Huang had 8,000 clay soldiers, larger than life-size, buried with him to protect him in the afterlife. One can only hope, after all that effort, it worked.

In March 1974, villagers dug wells in this wasteland. When dug a distance of over seven feet deep, they accidentally discovered the burned earth, even deeper, some cavity potteries which looked like human bodies were appeared, and when reached over sixteen feet deep, they found the floor was covered with a piece of blue bricks above which scattered the pottery pieces of human heads, arms and legs. "Is it a site of ancient temple?" they wondered.
The news spread rapidly in the village. The superstitious old women believed that the digging had disturbed the Earth God. When the night fell, they would come to the site to burn incense and kowtow. An old man thought probably birds would be scared if they saw the weird terracotta warriors, so he put a straw hat on a warrior to make it act like a scarecrow in the sweet potato land. Moreover, the bronze weapons like the arrow heads discovered at the same time were sold as cheap as metal scraps.
However, the team leader in the village found the terracotta warriors were unusual. He immediately reported the case to the superiors, and after full analysis and research from multi-side participation, in 1976, the Chinese government confirmed the royal identity of these Qin terracotta warriors and horses as well as decided to build a museum on the site where they were unearthed. Later, another two pits were discovered. The three pits covered an area of over 23,920 square yards and unearthed over 7,000 terracotta warriors and horses in total.
In 1978, the former French president Jacques Chirac visited the Museum of Qin Terracotta Warriors and Horses. He called the Qin warriors "the eighth wonder of the world". From then on the Qin terracotta warriors became famous all over the world.


On October 10 2009, the 35th anniversary of the discovery of Qin Terracotta Warriors and Horses, the logo of the Emperor Qin Shi Huang's Terracotta Army Museum was announced to the public. The logo geometrically abstracts the terracotta warriors and horses, in which every warrior is generalized into a round dot, and the collective dots resemble the combat formation. Above the dots, a long curve stands for the vast vault and rolling Lishan Mountain. The overall design is exactly like the sealing earth of the Mausoleum and also implies that the Emperor Qin Shi Huang's Terracotta Army Museum is a part of the Emperor Qin Shi Huang's Mausoleum Site Museum.


In the meantime, the logo of the Emperor Qin Shi Huang's Mausoleum Site Museum was published. The design perfectly blends the appearance of the sealing earth of the Mausoleum with Chinese character "Qin" written in mini-seal script. The middle pattern is drawn from the decoration of the eaves tile in Qin Dynasty, and also highlights the strength of Qin military. The logo is a sign of the military culture in Qin Dynasty.

The Great Wall and Terracotta Warriors - There seems so much to see in such a short space of time. This mausoleum where Emperor Qin Shi Huang was laid to rest over 2,000 years ago with his thousands of life-sized terra cotta warriors, archers and infantrymen that were buried with him; each man and horse molded with its own distinctive features must surely be one of the wonders of the world. The walkways provide a bird’s-eye view of the entire necropolis where the Terra Cotta Army was discovered in the 1970s.

You must get your guide book signed by one of the farmers who first discovered this army.  After lunch in Xian,we fly to Beijing and yet another wonderful experience. 





Saturday 8 September 2012


After breakfast we travel to the Badaling Hills. There, you behold one of the most impressive and best-preserved sections of the Great Wall of China—a 4,000-mile-long series of sandstone and earthwork fortifications built and maintained between the 5th century B.C. and the 16th century A.D. that is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.





We are told there is an easy route and a hard route so we decide on the tougher one. We explore its winding pathways and marvel at the panoramic views from its ramparts. It is unbelievable that I am  standing on the Great Wall of China against a backdrop of majestic mountains. The wall snakes endlessly over the undulating landscape and I can almost picture Genghis Khan, the Mongolian warrior, and his army of horsemen advancing towards us. You feel as if you want to cross each peak and follow it to its end. But at 5,500 miles it would surely take a more dedicated holiday maker than me to conquer. Everyone is quite simply, overawed by its magnitude.  


The Badaling Great Wall lies around 45 miles north of Beijing. It is the best preserved section of the fortification. Built during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) the highest point, at 3,282ft, is an amazing feat of construction. We climb to the eighth tower at 2,913ft, squeezing through rugged passageways and up narrow steps. It takes an hour but is well worth the effort.  As our group heads back to the metropolis of Beijing we agree this dramatic monument is a true highlight of the journey.


After a lunch of local specialties we visit the Sacred Way, a tree-lined avenue guarded by massive sculptures of elephants, lions and camels leading to the Ming Dynasty tombs. 




This evening we opted to try  China’s famous Peking duck and a recital by Peking Opera performers. 







On the coach to the opera we pass the hutongs (narrow alleys) in old Beijing and see a minuscule part of the the sights and sounds of traditional Chinese life. Red lanterns adorn the rooftops along the main strip of alleyway where houses are set around walled courtyards. Many share a kitchen, and bathrooms are communal, often exposed to the street.


 We visit a silk carpet workshop for a demonstration of this ancient art.There are incredible pictures that seem as though they are painted but all done most beautifully in silk threads. 

Beijing is home to 20 million people and the mystical Forbidden City. Once the seat of the Ming and Qing Emperors, all 24 of them, it comprises dozens of buildings housing all manner of treasures beneath the tiled roofs.



Just outside the walls, Tiananmen Square is full of street sellers peddling postcards, hats, Mao watches and photo books. you can still envisage the tanks moving formidably down the wide roads that run alongside it. 
The square feels like it has lost much of its sombre authority regardless of the fact that a huge portrait of Mao still hangs over the Gate of Heavenly Peace.


Once past the crowds, you can appreciate the Forbidden City’s Imperial Garden; eroded rock formations and trees which look borrowed from a fairytale, complete with facial features and even branches akin to arms.


BEIJING unfortunately is our last stop in mainland China. The Great Wall is a well trodden tourist path , the infamous Tiananmen Square, which can hold up to 600,000 people and home to Mao's Mausoleum. We will cherish the memories but also not to forget the terrible events of 1989, when possibly 3,000 protesters were killed and now seemed a distant memory as we wended our way across to the Forbidden City. Beijing’s Forbidden City, a UNESCO World Heritage Site is made up of nearly 800 buildings and is the world’s largest surviving palace complex. Walking in its grounds is simply amazing among the opulent palaces, pavilions, courtyards. 


It is the world's largest surviving palace, for almost 500 years the home of emperors, is now the Palace Museum where you could lose yourself for hours. As you wander among the courtyards, the roofs entrance the eye with their green and yellow glazed tiles and statuettes of dragons.

After an ample lunch (handling chopsticks like natives!!!!), we took a short trip across to the lake at the Summer Palace, a masterpiece of Chinese landscape design where the pavilions, halls, palaces and temples blend harmoniously with the natural hills and open water in an enchanting aesthetic experience.


Rarely, if ever, have I enjoyed such a culturally rich and historically interesting trip. We were absorbed and charmed by the genuine warmth of welcome and the eagerness of our hosts to share their history and hopes for an even greater future.
China is rapidly changing and my regret is that this was only my first visit and not a return to compare with 20 years ago. I'll be back.






Hong Kong
The last 3 days of our trip we fly from Beijing to Hong Kong. Our guide Charles ensures that we have everything we need from boarding cards to passports. Like being back at school.Hong Kong is often thought of as a halfway house between East and West,possibly because so many flights refuel and stop off on the way to Australasia, it's actually nothing of the sort. No fewer than 95 per cent of its population are Chinese and, of course, it was handed back to China in 1997.

Very little of imperial England remains, apart from the ancient double-decker buses that trundle up and down Queen's Road Central, covered in hieroglyphics. 
The views are amazing you would have never seen anything like it. Hong Kong is capitalism gone crazy more than the recently crashing financial markets have been able to demonstrate.


The skyscrapers have a brashness, even a brattishness, that you won't find anywhere in London or New York - from Norman Foster's towering glass and steel HSBC headquarters to the ever-so-slightly-bonkers Hong Kong cultural centre in Kowloon which is pink and has no windows.


Some of these buildings are tremendously ugly. Travelling up to the Peak, a lush mountainside that rises behind the city, and you get some of the most amazing views in Asia. You also get the Peak Tower, a monstrosity right out of Star Wars, housing shops so tacky that it's hard to believe the proprietors sell anything with a straight face.
It's also worth mentioning that while we were there it was such a clear day that we had views that could not be seen on our previous two visits. There did not seem to be the smog or mist that often lies across the tops of the buildings. 


The Peak Tram, operated by Hong Kong and Shanghai Hotels, is a 1.4 kilometres funicular railway connecting the Central district of Hong Kong with the Peak Tower approximately 150 metres below the summit of Victoria Peak. The journey is steep and spectacular with panoramic views over the northern coast of Hong Kong Island, Victoria Harbour and Kowloon. The tram which first opened in 1888 was the first mechanical public transport in Hong Kong and is the world's steepest funicular railway. When it opened it was the only form of transportation to the Peak other than sedan chair and the trams were originally steam-driven until an electric cable haulage system was introduced in 1926. Until the 1960's had two classes of tickets, one for the rich and one for servants. The current modernised enclosed two-car trams were introduced in 1989, each with a capacity of 120 passengers (95 seated and 25 standing) although in quiet periods only one tram may be in operation. Trams operate at about 10/15 minute frequency and the journey from terminus to terminus takes about 5 minutes. both sides of the harbour.

We stay at the Intercontinental Hotel for 3 nights. Mercedes Limousine waiting for us at the Airport and that wonderful drive to Hong Kong across those beautiful bridges. Reception staff polite and welcoming and we were upgraded to Harbour view on 18th floor - what a view overlooking the Avenue of Stars and across to that ever changing picture from daylight to the night time illuminations. Our room was as expected high quality , spotless and well serviced. We also enjoyed the roof top swimming pool after a humid day of sight seeing. Relaxing by the pool being provided with ice cold water and a cooling iced flannel - a real luxury. We ate dinner on two nights in the Cafe restaurant on the 2nd floor overlooking the reception lobby in all its grandeur. Entertained by the in house pianist. We ate the buffet dinner and there was so much choice ranging from Chinese foods to western style. Service excellent but can be over attentive as soon as you finished your course the plate seemed to be whipped away before you could lay your fork down.
Breakfast also buffet style and again a wide variety of foods and excellent service. The pancakes were divine.
My only criticism about this hotel is that like many others they charge for wifi, surely in this day and age this should be included in the hotel price like bathroom robes and shampoo. I can't understand why hotels are 'stingy' about this. In my opinion wifi should be free everywhere.


The metro is 3 minutes away, the Star Ferry a mere 15 minute stroll along the Avenue of Stars and a bus outside the hotel will take you all the way to Stanley for next to nothing. All in all well situated for shops, markets, transport, and wonderful views. The Star Ferry is well worth trying especially as you get a different perspective from the water. 
 I would certainly stay here again. This was my third visit to Hong Kong and this hotel is well placed. I rather like the style others might think a bit old fashioned but it felt comfortable to me.
Yet he concierge was really helpful and able to provide directions and advice. He also arranged our limo back to the airport which all worked rather smoothly.

Outside of our hotel you could step onto the  The Avenue of Stars which is the eastern node of several tourist attractions along the Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront. In addition to the promenade and New World Centre, a number of attractions exist including the Museum of ArtSpace MuseumCultural Centre and the Clock Tower.
Entering from Salisbury Garden, a 4.5-metre-tall replica of the statuette given to winners at the Hong Kong Film Awards greets visitors. Along the 440 metre promenade, the story of Hong Kong's one hundred years of cinematic history is told through inscriptions printed on nine red pillars. Set into the promenade are plaques honouring the celebrities. Some plaques contain hand prints and autographs of the stars set in cement, but most of the plaques only contain celebrities' names as they are now deceased. A 2.5 metre bronze statue of Bruce Lee was erected along the Avenue of Stars in 2005.



The promenade commands a stunning panoramic view across Victoria Harbour. At night it is a popular viewing place for the Symphony of Lights display. It is a good place to go to see the glamorous stars of HK.

The Symphony of Lights this must surely be the grandest free light shows you’ll ever see.  Every night at 8pm, 44 buildings on both sides of the Victoria Harbour synchronise their lights and show off lasers in time with music.  You’ll need to be on the harbour walkways on either side of the harbour to hear the music and get the best view of the lights.  The narration is in English on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays and we think the best view is on the Avenue of Stars where we watched.    



Stanley Market
This is a trip we have done on a previous visit but well worth it. The 963 bus leaves outside of our hotel and for a pittance you get a picturesque ride through the city and out along the coast to Stanley Market.  We enjoyed taking the bus to Stanley sitting on thre upper deck at the front to take in all the sights. We get off opposite the Markets and wander through. On my last visit we bought some silk ties but you can buy anything! The Market is a selection of open front shops linked by covered walkways.

In my opinion Stanley Market is not the place for "die-hard" bargain shoppers. A bit of extra effort is needed here to talk down the prices the stall holders are hardened to  the tourist bartering and stick to their guns. . Some shop owners wont budge on price at all. This market caters to tourists and many of the items for sale reflect that, but there are also shops selling more expensive one-off items that you wont find at other markets. Obviously shop owners don’t want to "give" them away so don’t be surprised if they seem a little annoyed by your bartering.

If you want a t-shirt with your name written on it in Cantonese then you can have that done. There are also a loads of souvenirs (stress balls or chopsticks anyone?) and more traditional chinese craft shops. Beautiful chinese style dresses are also available and a selection of silk evening wear. Paintings and posters are also available.


















If you thought Victoria Harbour was a dazzling cityscape on its own, hang around for A Symphony of Lights; the nightly multimedia show, which involves more than 40 buildings 
Permanent Light and Sound Show' by Guinness World Records, us takes about 7 minutes.







Zimbabwe

ZIMBABWE


18 August 2010
We arrived in Harare having flown from Heathrow to Johannesburg and transferred to SAA for the 1 ½ hour flight to Harare.  On arrival finding Lyn’s suitcase missing with all of her clothes and the presents for the family. We make the necessary reports and are greeted by Lucy and John and taken to their home at 22 Epping Road, Mountpleasant, Harare. They have a beautiful 4 bedroom bungalow set in its own grounds with a wall with razor wire surrounding it and a security guard at the gate.  We meet Brian the guard, Tambo who deals with the housework and Lazarus the gardener who lives with his wife Joyce and 5 of his 6 children in a small house in the grounds. Also we get to meet Simba and Nala the puppies who seem to have grown full size in their 6 months of life. 





During the trip I was able to go to a Rotary Club - Harare Dawn 2000 (34) (I)W0645 Lucy Ibottson Centre, 6th Street, Herbert Chitepo
Avenue, Harare, P Michael Manga 610 Rugare Close, Greystone Park, ZW- Harare.
The dogs are very active and need a good walk so we go to the National Botanical Gardens which have obviously been left to grow wild but the dogs enjoy the space and water. 

For anyone interested in Zimbabwe plants or woodland habitats this is a good place to visit.
It is a great place to walk one's dog, have a light meal in the restaurant, and generally enjoy the different woodland environments. For anyone needing some fresh air, but not wishing to travel far, what could be a better place to walk around?


The National Botanic Garden of Zimbabwe is situated about 4 km North of Harare City Centre in the suburb of Alexandra Park. It also houses the National Herbarium of Zimbabwe. The gardens have an area of almost 7 square kilometres. Initially established as a recreation area in 1902, it became the National Botanic Gardens in 1962 under the direction of Dr. Hyram Wilder. Half of the gardens are devoted to indigenous plants from Zimbabwe’s woodlands and include most of the 750 species found in the country. Other areas contain plants typical to the African continent including rare and endangered species, as well as exotics from South America, India, Australia and the Far East.






Harare ,before 1982 known as Salisbury is the largest city and capital of Zimbabwe. It has an estimated population of 1,600,000, with 2,800,000 in its metropolitan area (2006). Administratively, Harare is an independent city equivalent to a province. It is Zimbabwe's largest city and its administrative, commercial, and communications centre. The city is a trade centre for tobacco, maize, cotton, and citrus fruits. Manufactures include textiles, steel, and chemicals, and gold is mined in the area. Harare is situated at an elevation of 1483 metres (4865 feet) and its climate falls into the warm temperate category.

Harare is the site of the University of Zimbabwe, the largest institution of higher learning in Zimbabwe, which is situated about 5 km north of the city. Numerous suburbs surround the city, retaining the names colonial administrators gave them during the 19th century, such as Warren Park, Borrowdale, Mount Pleasant, Marlborough, Tynwald and Avondale. The largest and second oldest suburb is Highfield which incorporates numerous townships including but not limited to Western Triangle, Canaan, Egypt, Lusaka and Jerusalem.
In the early 21st century Harare has been adversely affected by the political and economic crisis that is currently plaguing Zimbabwe, after the contested 2002 presidential election and 2005 parliamentary elections. The elected council was replaced by a government-appointed commission for alleged inefficiency, but essential services such as rubbish collection and street repairs have rapidly worsened, and are now virtually non-existent. In May 2006 the Zimbabwean newspaper the Financial Gazette, described the city in an editorial as a "sunshine city-turned-sewage farm".
In May 2005 the Zimbabwean government demolished shanties and backyard cottages in Harare and the other cities in the country in Operation Murambatsvina ("Drive Out Trash"). This caused a sharp reaction in the international community because it took place without prior warning and no advance plans were made to provide alternative housing. It was widely alleged that the true purpose of the campaign was to punish the urban poor for supporting the opposition Movement for Democratic Change and to reduce the likelihood of mass action against the government by driving people out of the cities. The government claimed it was necessitated by a rise of criminality and disease. This was followed by Operation Chikerema (Operation "Better Living") a year later which consisted of building concrete housing.
In 2009, Harare was voted to be the toughest city to live in according to the Economist Intelligence Unit's liveability poll.
Zimbabwe’s place in the world
Mugabe remains, unreported but still belligerent; his continued presence illustrating the weakness of Zimbabwe’s newly formed government and the intransigence of his most important partner, China. The continued destruction of Zimbabwe’s economy and social fabric poses in microcosm the dilemmas that confront Western governments: do they confront corrupt regimes and the rising influence of the BRIC countries if doing so requires changing their own character?
Zimbabwe is one of the most devastating expressions of this dilemma. If Tony Blair once talked about Africa’s debt as the scar on the conscience of the world, Zimbabwe’s situation is the open wound. For once, the statistics speak clearly. Zimbabwe has the highest public debt ratio in the world, a staggering 304.3% of GDP. 95% of the population are unemployed and 68% live below the official poverty line of 13 Trillion Zimbabwean dollars a day.
Zimbabwe’s situation is a microcosm of the wider foreign policy situation writ large. Here, the liberal, morality-inflected foreign policy of Western states falls short while the cold economic and political rationality of Chinese foreign policy is played out to its fullest.
While the UK sends aid and greets each horror with the same outraged rhetoric, the situation never changes. Fine words make little difference in Zimbabwe at present. Moreover, regional interlocuters are aware of this blind spot of Western actions. South African president Jacob Zuma is to arrive in the UK in the next month to press Gordon Brown’s administration to drop sanctions against Zimbabwe, a step likely designed to ease the pressure of immigration flows into South Africa. Zuma’s actions encapsulate the dilemma of Western governments: should they attempt to work with Mugabe or attempt to actively force Mugabe out?
This dilemma is compounded by the quiet, but determined rise of China in Zimbabwe. In comparison to the effete, confused posturing of the UK, China has its answer set in stone: they will actively support whoever guarantees them access to natural resource, including vast platinum resources, and rising influence across Africa. A 2005 New York Times article first commented on Mugabe’s self-styled “Look East” policy that has seen a vast movement towards China, an attempt not just to thumb his nose at old colonial masters, but to guarantee his own stability. Over the last 10 years Chinese companies have won massive agricultural, defence and hydroelectric contracts, while it seems that a Memorandum of Understanding has been signed over the last year for a $5billion stake in Zimbabwe’s vast platinum reserves.
Critically, this money and influence comes unburdened by criticism of Mugabe or Zimbabwean politics. So often, British and European aid finds itself accompanied by sanctions and criticism, essentially taking away with one hand what it gives with its other. In contrast, China has opened up a vast and uncritical supply line. So while Western foreign policy is driven by a desire to impose standards on regime and improve them, a desire that sees their policy falls between stools so often, Chinese foreign policy is simply driven by self interest. Though this is frequently cloaked in artful rhetoric, the simple fact of self interest remains: it drives the paradigms that are dividing the world.


Victoria Falls 

Named after a local Nhanzwa chief, Hwange National Park is the largest Park in Zimbabwe occupying roughly 14 650 square kms. It is located in the northwest corner of the country about one hour south of the Mighty Victoria Falls.

 
We saw 4 out 5 of the big 5 animals, and on one of the night drives we were lucky enough to find two lions, a male and female and were able to get quite close.  We saw elephants and so many different species of birds and other animals and in fact we saw it all as Hwange National Park is not short of animals. We went in August and there seemed plenty of  animals  and if anyone is wanting to have an experience of a lifetime then this is the place, a truly amazing place on earth. 

Some of the most majestic granite scenery in the world is found in the Matobo Hills. It is here that the hopes, trials and tribulations of the Bushmen (San people) are recorded in the ancient rock art. Mammal and bird species are prolific and include the highest concentration of Leopard and Black Eagle in the world.At the base of Camp Amalinda is a large swimming pool with comfortable lounges and a bar, all overlooking a waterhole. A thatched health centre includes a fully equipped gymnasium with a sauna. A resident beauty therapist is available for a massage, manicure and pedicure. This is the perfect place to relax and absorb the setting.


Cecil Rhodes, the driving force behind Britain's colonial ambitions in Africa (as well as founder of De Beers and the Rhodes Scholarship), was also drawn by the spirituality of the Matobo Hills, and visitors can marvel at the vistas from his grave at 'World's View' (or Malindidzimu 'the Place of Spirits' to the Ndebele people).  Contemporary Ndebele people also consider the Matobo Hills a very sacred place, and continue to hold important religious ceremonies in the area. We met some of the Ndebele villagers who live in the vicinity of the camp, and also a visit to a local orphanage.




One of the greatest attractions in Africa and one of the most spectacular waterfalls in the world, Victoria Falls is located on the Zambezi River, the fourth largest river in Africa, which is also defining the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe. Victoria Falls is the only waterfall in the world with a length of more than a km and a height of more than hundred meters. It is also considered to be the largest fall in the world.


The noise of Victoria Falls can be heard from a distance of 40 kms, while the spray and mist from the falling water is rising to a height of over 400 meters and can be seen from a distance of 50 kms. No wonder that the local tribes used to call the waterfall Mosi-o-Tunya “The smoke that thunders”.

Scottish missionary and famous explorer of Africa David Livingstone (1813-1873) named it after Queen Victoria. Livingstone who was the first European to cross Africa from south to north discovered this awe-inspiring waterfall in 1855, while preaching Christianity in Africa. That is why Livingstone wasn’t very pleased with his discovery: it was just an obstacle on his way.

Despite the inconveniences, he was fascinated by the beauty of the falls. In 1857 Livingstone wrote that no one in England can even imagine the beauty of this scene. Religious Livingstone also wrote that most probably angels are admiring the scenery while flying nearby. He was accompanied by soldiers but only two of them took the risk of approaching the waterfalls with Livingstone. For centuries local African tribes had a sacral fear from the waterfall.

The waterfall was hardly visited by people up until 1905, when a railway to Bulawayo was constructed. Since then Victoria Falls quickly gained popularity until the end of the British colonial rule. At the end of the 1960s the number of tourists started to decrease due to the guerrilla struggle in Zimbabwe. After Zimbabwe gained independence the region has been in relative peace and Victoria Falls started to attract a new wave of tourism.

By the end of 1990 nearly 300,000 people were visiting the falls each year. Victoria Falls is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the citizens of both Zambia and Zimbabwe no longer have fear of the “the smoke that thunders”, and are successfully developing the tourism on both sides of the river.
The falls were formed in a zone of crustal faults. On the crest of the fall numerous islands divide the main flow into several branches. During floods, the water flow capacity reaches half a million liters of water per minute.

The water level varies throughout the year; it is at its peak in April, at the end of the rainy season when on average 500,000,000 litres of water flow and it is at its lowest level in October and early November.

Interestingly, during the dry season the water level in the Zambezi River drops sharply, and it becomes possible to walk through some parts of the waterfall. However, during the rest of the year Victoria Falls is a roaring machine that strikes anyone with its power.wange National Park.

Elephants have been enormously successful in Hwange and the population has increased to far above that naturally supported by such an area. However there have been consecutive years of drought in the Hwange region and this population of elephants has put a lot of strain on the resources of the park. There has been a lot of debate on how to deal with this, and culling may well be the only solution.


The Boma is an unforgettable African experience infused with Zimbabwean cuisine, The Boma - Place of Eating is a Must Do whilst in Victoria Falls. Partially open to the African skies, it offers a unique experience that bombards the senses with the tastes, sights, sounds and smells of Africa - together with the warmth and hospitality of Zimbabwe and it's people. Specialising in a superb selection of traditional Zimbabwean dishes, 

The Boma offers a four-course meal combining a mouth watering choice of starters from the kitchen, soup from the campfire and a substantial barbeque buffet served on cast iron plates.They offer a wide variety of salads from the salad bar and to follow a choice of delicious desserts from the buffet area. Everyone’s tastes are catered for and whilst the adventurous are enticed with local delicacies such as Mopani worms and game stews, those wishing to enjoy beef, pork, fish and chicken or a variety of vegetarian meals are welcome to do so. The Boma is renowned for its warthog fillet. 

A feast of nightly entertainment incorporates Amakwezi traditional dancers, singers, a local story teller and a Sangoma (traditional healer). After dinner, guests are invited to join in the drumming extravaganza. This is the highlight of the evening and all are invited to participate in the drumming and dancing show with their renowned drummers – Amazulu.


Hwange National ParkHwange National Park (formerly Wankie) is the largest game reserve in Zimbabwe. The park lies in the west, on the main road between Bulawayo and the widely noted Victoria Falls. It was founded around 1928 by a 22-year-old game ranger, Ted Davidson. He befriended the Manchester-born James Jones who was the stationmaster for the then Rhodesian Railways at Dete which is very near Hwange Main Camp. Jones managed incoming supplies for the park.


This National Park covers over 14,600 square kilometres. The park is close to the edge of the Kalahari desert, a region with little water and very sparse, xerophilevegetation.

The Park boasts more than 100 different mammal species, including 19 large herbivores and eight large carnivores, and over 400 species of birds. With up to 30000 elephants, Hwange is one of the few great elephant sanctuaries left in Africa. All Zimbabwe's specially protected animals are to be found in Hwange and it is the only protected area where gemsbok and brown hyena occur in reasonable numbers. The population of wild dog to be found in Hwange is thought to be of one of the largest surviving groups in Africa today. Prides of lions are also common.

The area includes many diverse habitats including teak forests, palm islands, Kalahari savannah and acacia woodlands.The landscape includes desert sand to sparse woodland as well as grasslands and granite outcrops. Due to the lack of water, man-made waterholes were introduced to sustain the animals through the dry season. 

The park has an interesting variety of landscapes with one part running alongside the North-eastern end of the Kalahari desert. The south is sandy with extensive forests and open grassland. A feature of the area is ancient fossil dunes - ancient sand dunes held together by vegetation.There are still relatively few safari lodges in Hwange, despite being one of Africa's prime game viewing destinations. The small number of visitors, allow guests to experience a Hwange safari away from the crowds.Climate Dry Season: July to September is hot during the day but can drop to below freezing on particularly cold winter nights. 

During these dry months the animals are concentrated around the man-made waterholes, without which they would die. Rainy Season: Big fluffy clouds release the summer rains and the vegetation bursts into life. The area has a relatively low average rainfall of between 22-25 inches (570-650 mm) per annum. Temperatures can reach over 100°F (38°C), while on average they range from 65-83°F (18-28°C). Birdlife is most spectacular at this time.


The Hide
It became the royal hunting grounds to the Ndebele warrior-king Mzilikazi in the early 19th Century and was set aside as a National Park in 1929. Hwange boasts a tremendous selection of wildlife with over 100 species of mammals and nearly 400 bird species recorded. The elephants of Hwange are world famous and the Park’s elephant population is one of the largest in the world. The Park has three distinctive Camps and administrative offices at Robins, Sinamatella and the largest one at Main Camp.


The Hide is located in a large private concession on the eastern boundary of Hwange National Park, The Hide is also regarded as one of the most well situated safari camps in Hwange - offering simple access to the main park and in itself being well endowed with healthy wildlife populations.
One of the unique attractions are the specially constructed hides near the waterholes - this is a wildlife photographer's paradise - often resulting in guests forgoing walks and other activities in camp!
Herds of elephant, buffalo, kudu, giraffe and wildebeest are but a few of the animals that can be seen (all are resident in the area).
Where do I start!! The Hide is one of the most spectacular places I have visited, from the staff, tents, food, animals there is nothing to fault.
Everything is included from Breakfast/Lunch/Afternoon Tea/Dinner/ Dessert/Alcohol/Tea/Coffee/Laundry and 4 game drives per day.


The guides are so knowledgable and provide full information. They certainly know their stuff from reading footprints in the sandy soil to the sounds and smells of the bush they track the animals.
The morning safari was superb especially the morning we went on a walk with Daffy who was able to point out everything from bird life, roaming animals and the trees and vegetation. It was truly great, but I would have to say my favourite drive of the day would be the 3pm (sunset drive) this is when we saw most of the animals and its great having a sundowner drink watching the sunset.






There is an opportunity to get dropped out at the treehouse out in the middle of nowhere!!! where you can stay overnight if you wish. Fellow travellers from Canada, Odd and Joyce say this was a most wonderful experience and were disappointed to have been brought back to breakfast the following morning. 
We stayed in tent 8 which had an ensuite bathroom, and apart from being a little worried about animals visiting us it was great to live a semi-outdoor life not  being the daring type.The room facilities were fantastic, they supplied mossie coils, insect repellent and your laundry was done every day, not to mention the wakeup call with a tray of hot tea to start the day with the rousing voice saying ‘knock, knock’.

The Food was fantastic, The best meals served up at a large table within the huge dining area overlooking the waterhole watching elephants and other animals drinking.  You could help yourself to drinks from the self service fridge which has a huge range of drinks to offer.Breakfast was a choice of cereals and fruits and then you could also have a hot breakfast cooked on an open fire by the chef. Lunch was always 2 courses, coffee and cake for afternoon tea and Dinner was 3 courses so trust me you are always full !!!!The staff was absolutely amazing, they made us feel like Royalty, from pulling your chairs in and out at dinner to making you feel welcome and on a chilly evening providing a blanket to keep you warm. It  was just excellent, everyone sits around a huge teak table providing the opportunity to share your stories and meet new people.


Matobo Hills  - Camp Amalinda
We enjoyed our stay at Camp Amalinda, Guests are accommodated in 8 individually thatched rooms, 5 at ground level and 5 at upper level (with steps). In addition to this the camp also features 2 honeymoon suites, both on the upper level,set into the huge granite boulders. Each room at this Zimbabwe lodging has en-suite facilities. Amalinda Camp's comfortable lounge / entertainment area is tucked away into a bushman shelter, with a panoramic view of the Matobo Hills. Delicious meals are served on a large, teak table in the open-air dining room. 


Camp Amalinda's cosy library contains some of the old 'African Classics', whilst a secluded chess room, located amongst the treetops guarantees peace and tranquillity. For the wine connoisseur, a visit to the natural cave wine cellar is recommended. Sundowners can be enjoyed around a warm fire in Amalinda Camp's enclosed boma area.

Guests can enjoy fabulous bird watching - the Matobo Hills are home to the greatest variety and density of raptors anywhere in the world or participate in a guided tour of some of the ancient rock-art sites in the Matobo Hills, a reminder of the Bushman (San people), southern Africa's earliest human inhabitants, and the first of many to be drawn to the power of the Matobo Hills.


Tucked away into an ancient bushman's shelter, Camp Amalinda's charm will leave an indelible impression on every visitor. Some of the most majestic granite scenery in the world is found in the Matobo Hills. It is here that the hopes, trials and tribulations of the San Bushmen are recorded in the ancient rock art. Mammal and bird species are prolific and include the highest concentration of Leopard and Black Eagle in the world. 

Nyanga
The Inn On Rupurara has been designed with a Cape Country theme, with use of wood and stone throughout, and offers visitors a unique and innovative view of the Nyanga area - one in which the natural vegetation and wildlife of the area are celebrated. 


The Nyanga and Juliasdale area of the Eastern Highlands were once a hive of activity and popular weekend and holiday destination for Zimbabwean and visitors alike. At a time when big hotels where the places to stay if you were well-heeled, the Rhodes-Inyanga, Montclair and Troutbeck were the most popular. These are a bit dated now and have suffered in recent times, but are becoming more popular again, mostly with Zim families during school holidays. World's View is a spectacular vista viewed from the northern part of the Eastern Highlands mountain range, just North of Nyanga, in eastern Zimbabwe. The view point is popular with tourists. The view encompasses the plains and hills that rolls away from the range to the far west. Land as far as Rusape and even (it is claimed) Harare beyond can be seen on clear days.

The Eastern Highlands actually are just what it says on the tin...quite high and running down the eastern side of the country. This rather sweeping term actually belies a host of different environments from neat and rather clinical forestry plantations to rugged gorges stilted by rapids and waterfalls, rolling grassy foothills and assorted indigenous woodland. The highlands run from Inyanga (or Nyanga) in the north to Chimanimani and Chipinge in the south.

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